Water Block Installation
Because our cooling system came with an LGA 775-ready water block, the first thing we needed to do was swap one of the installed components for an “also-included” component of Swiftech’s H20-220 liquid cooling kit. We began by removing the cooling plate (center) from the LGA 775 base (right) along with several screws.
Three seals need to be pulled from the LGA 775 base and pushed into the corresponding groves of the AMD base. The first one, photographed above, seals the cooling plate to the base while the other two, photographed below, seal the base to the pump body.
Reassembly is as easy as replacing the screws in the same order that they came out. More details can be found in an included manual, if needed, though our photos are a little easier to decipher.
The CPU was then installed into the socket and layered with thermal paste. Notice that we also removed the top portion of the CPU cooler mount from the motherboard, in preparation for the next step.
Swiftech’s Socket AM2 mounting kit (used on Socket AM3 this time) includes four spacers, four screws, and four lock washers. Deep-offset nuts on our motherboard’s plastic cooler support plate prevented the intended screws from reaching, but Swiftech’s cooling kit did include some slightly longer screws, which sufficed.
The four plastic spacers were then set over the four screw holes, followed by the CPU water block assembly. Screws hold the block tight against the CPU, while lock washers prevent loosening.
- Gaming,
- performance ,
- amd
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5870s next SBM? Bring it on!
I'm aware that a comparison with the last high end SB PC would be misleading as it, basically, didn't work properly, but nonetheless it would be nice to see something to put the performance into context.
Looking at the benchmarks for fallout 3 and world in conflict, the 1300$ pc from a few days ago is not that far behind. (pretty close when o.c'ed)
what really pisses me off is that tomshardware guys always seems to try to make it exactly 2500~ and they sometimes put some things that isn't needed like Antec 0761345-75018-9 "SpotCool" LED Fan and an NZXT case for such a budget ?!!! i think they should rename the title to maybe 2000$-2500$ so that they don't put unneeded things to just make it the exact price do anyone agree?
Im really suprised that all fit i personaly wuold have opted for a better case why dident they choose something like a coolermaster sniper ..... and then they wouldent have to buy that spot cooler thingy and still have 2500 XD
I am always 'concerned' by watercooling that has no reservoir. With the Panzerbox the radiator location is in the very top of the case and would surely end up as the 'reservoir' , collecting any air that built up over time ?
Would a pump and reservoir (sealable type) fixed to the case floor work for air collection (something like the Thermaltake Prowater ones) or, would air continue to migrate to the radiator regardless ?
what really pisses me off is that tomshardware guys always seems to try to make it exactly 2500~ and they sometimes put some things that isn't needed like Antec 0761345-75018-9 "SpotCool" LED Fan and an NZXT case for such a budget ?!!! i think they should rename the title to maybe 2000$-2500$ so that they don't put unneeded things to just make it the exact price do anyone agree?
I think they should just build the performance machine for raw power. LED fans and Daft cases are a matter of taste or lack of.
So the price of these machines isn't the limit. It should be the average FPS / cost. or what ever value per cost that is the focus of the test.