Archived from groups: microsoft.public.broadbandnet.hardware (More info?)
The power adapter that came with my Router appears to have burnt out,
and believe it or not, I am just not able to find a store that sells
the right adapter for it. I need a adapter that delivers 5V, 2.5A of DC
output. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Seems D-link has a "weak link" judging by the number of us with a failed power supplys. D-link would be glad to sell me a new one for $29.99+ tax+ shipping. I bought another companies NEW N+G+ wireless router for less than the replacement power supply would cost.
If your tech savvy, the component that always fails in that unit is the (only) 47uf/25V capacitor.
Swap it out with the slightly larger 47uF/50V cap and you'll be good to go for a long time.
If your tech savvy, the component that always fails in that unit is the (only) 47uf/25V capacitor. Swap it out with the slightly larger 47uF/50V cap and you'll be good to go for a long time.
Thanks for this tip! After a power cut, our router didn't come back on. Traced it to dead 5V adapter. Googled "5V 2.5A" and found this thread and your tip. Pried open the adapter, replaced the capacitor with what we had on hand (33uF/50V) and it's working again. The internet is amazing, and people like you who post these tips are the reason.
You are the man Yasou! Fixed my power adapter. There was a bit of problem finding the capacitor however, it was covered by a black shrinkwrap that had bonded to it making it impossible to read the values. It can also be located by the slight discoloration on the PCB and it was near the AC power pins on my adapter. The voltage seems to creep up slowly from around 2.5V when plugged in without a load so I hope it's just a soft start feature. My router is working again so I'm crossing my fingers.
If your tech savvy, the component that always fails in that unit is the (only) 47uf/25V capacitor.
Swap it out with the slightly larger 47uF/50V cap and you'll be good to go for a long time.
Mr Yasou, you are amazing!!! I am not tech savvy but been like to take apart electronics since I was a kid. I managed to find a 47uF/25V cap from an old network card. I replaced one on the adapter and almost damaged the circuit board in the process. Now, it is back to work again! Many, many thanks to you. By the way, how did you know the 47uF/25V cap was the bad boy?
Tom.
The saga continues on the repair of the Jentec JTA0302B adapter that had once again failed a day after the 47uF capacitor was replaced. A diode next to the capacitor, also shrinkwrapped, seem to have charred the PCB. Removing it and testing indicated it was shorted and therefore toast. Since it was unmarked and the way it was connected across the 47uF capacitor suggested it is a shunting zener means I had to figure out what's what. The 47uF capacitor is connected to a chip. Scraping away the gunk that covered the chip shows that it is a UC3843B Current mode controller, ie the heart of a PWM based switching mode power supply. The capacitor is the power supply capacitor for the chip and the power supply is supposed to have a 36V zener shunt to protect it from start up over voltages. Since the zener goes 11V over the rating of the capacitor it may be part of the reason why the capacitor failed. So the 1/2 W zener was replaced with a 1W part which probably is the right idea since it seems the adapter is populated with underspec'ed parts. The adapter still acted funny as the voltage seems to ramp up real slow and had no regulation as the voltage dropped when a 100 ohm resistor was used as load. So no go. Careful examination of the rest of the components showed a bulging capacitor on the 5V output. OK thats probably bad. What about the rest of the capacitors. Good thing I have an EVB capacitor ESR meter and can check capacitors in circuit. Turns out all the original electrolytic capacitors, except one, had failed. If you ever see a Teapo capacitor, just replace it. Luckily I have some good quality Rubycon ZL series caps on hand with workable values and replaced the bad caps. I now measure a solid 5.16V on the output and feel quite good as I'm posting this through my DLINK router.
@ttclee it's supposed to be 47uf 50V. Underspec at you own risk.
Message edited by Wing_28 on 04-05-2011 at 09:55:55 PM
If your tech savvy, the component that always fails in that unit is the (only) 47uf/25V capacitor.
Swap it out with the slightly larger 47uF/50V cap and you'll be good to go for a long time.
Yasou, Thanks for that. Do you know the exact current draw of the NIR-632 or NIR-614? I want to replace the power supply with a battery and 5v regulator. Linear Technologies offers a 5V, 3amp regulator (LT123A) that could work.