Approximate Purchase Date:Marchish
Budget Range: 800-1000
System Usage from Most to Least Important:Gaming, Internet Surfing, school
Parts Not Required: Monitor, Keyboard, Mouse, Operating System
Preferred Website(s) for Parts: Newegg, MicroCenter, tiger direct
Country: Usa
Parts Preferences: A good brand
Overclocking: 100% NO
SLI or Crossfire: whats this?
Monitor Resolution: 1920x 1080
Should i just wait for the new intel and the new radeons to come in insteaD?
Save some money on the RAM, get this RAM instead:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6820313086 The clock difference can be ignored because it'll be automatically set to 1333Mhz unless you want to OC the RAM, which will void the Intel CPU warranty, which I do NOT recommend.
Also, if you aren't going to OC the CPU, then why get a CPU that is overclockable? Instead, save some money and get the i5 2400:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6819115074 It delivers similar performance to the i5 2500k but cannot be overclocked and is also cheaper.
You can also save some money on the motherboard. Instead of the Gigabyte motherboard, you can go with the ASRock Extreme 3 Gen3 Z68:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6813157271 It's cheaper but has loads of features such as 2PCIe 3.0 slots for upgrading in the future.
SLI/CF: It means that you use 2 same graphics cards (or very similar) and put them together to form a single more powerful graphics unit. The board you choose and the ASRock board supports SLI and CF.
As for waiting...it's up to you. We really don't know how the new components are going to perform in real life. You can wait and see, or buy now
^All the above advice is good, except that you should get the 2500K (see below). On SLI/Xfire: you should get a single, powerful graphics card now and build your other parts around the possibility of adding another card in the future. This means a decent PSU and a mobo that can handle it. SLI/Xfire is the easiest upgrade you can do if you plan for it when you choose your other parts.
Why the heck don't you want to overclock? With the 2500K it's easy, safe and very rewarding. You can even stay covered, if you really want to, with Intel's new OCing protection plan, though it's unnecessary. When the chip starts to feel balky in a couple of years you can easily stretch it to 4.3ghz or so, and it'll be like getting a whole new processor for free. OCing doesn't have to mean trophy OCing, the practice of messing around with voltage and cooling and such to get the maximum possible clock out of your chip.
On another note, I'd recommend waiting a month and then doing this again. There should be several significant new products coming out in the next month—the beginning of the Nvidia 600 series and maybe Ivy Bridge as well (or is that April?).
http://budgetcomputershelp.wordpress.com/ Read this. At the bottom there is a list. Also, the Intel 520 SSD looks really promising right now, so you can check that out.
Message edited by somekidxd on 02-08-2012 at 03:57:04 AM
I find it's pretty hard to beat Microcenter if an i5-2500K or i7-2600K is in your future thanks to their bundle savings and ridiculously low CPU prices.
Message edited by bliq on 02-08-2012 at 04:14:13 AM
The Antec 900 case is out dated . Even the 900 two is outdated . Perhaps save money here with the new Antec 300 two which is the same size , and has front usb 3 ports
^All the above advice is good, except that you should get the 2500K (see below). On SLI/Xfire: you should get a single, powerful graphics card now and build your other parts around the possibility of adding another card in the future. This means a decent PSU and a mobo that can handle it. SLI/Xfire is the easiest upgrade you can do if you plan for it when you choose your other parts.
Why the heck don't you want to overclock? With the 2500K it's easy, safe and very rewarding. You can even stay covered, if you really want to, with Intel's new OCing protection plan, though it's unnecessary. When the chip starts to feel balky in a couple of years you can easily stretch it to 4.3ghz or so, and it'll be like getting a whole new processor for free. OCing doesn't have to mean trophy OCing, the practice of messing around with voltage and cooling and such to get the maximum possible clock out of your chip.
On another note, I'd recommend waiting a month and then doing this again. There should be several significant new products coming out in the next month—the beginning of the Nvidia 600 series and maybe Ivy Bridge as well (or is that April?).
I don't like Ocing because I'm kind of afraid of blowing it up haha..
Everything there looks good. I would go with the gtx 560Ti because it is a step up above the 6870 though. Also, I would not go with that combo of case and PSU. Cooler Master doesn't always make the most reliable PSUs. Why don't you go with this case and PSU:
Case: HAF 912
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6811119233 PSU:
Antec High Current Gamer Series HCG-750
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6817371049
I don't like Ocing because I'm kind of afraid of blowing it up haha..
There is no way you can go wrong with changing the multiplier, and nothing else, on a Sandy Bridge chip. The worst thing that could happen is a BSOD, and you can just reboot when that happens. It won't happen, anyway: if you get one, it means your OC is too ambitious, and you don't have to do anything ambitious.
Ok, so you reallly should get the mobo at Microcenter too - they have similar prices to newegg on them and if you buy a Z68 or P67 based mobo with a 2500k, you get an extra $50. That's a no brainer.
I would recommend upping it to the Extreme4 - the Extreme3 doesn't have internal headers for front USB3.0 ports which will be come important over the next few years (and may be now, if you transfer large files a lot).
I do not like to OC too, besides I have an i7-2600k, mine is in stock condition.
But already did it sometime ago to try it, and is pretty much easy.
In Asus motherboards (I have one too), the OC is automatic and pretty much good considering you just click a single button. And wait.
Do not be afraid of overclocking in the future, just be sure you have enough cooling.
If you want to have an open path to go SLI/Crossfire in the future, you need to change this PSU, since it have only 2* 2+6 pin PCI-E.
Considering that mid, high-end VGA needs 2 PCI-E pin, this PSU only power up one VGA.
If you gonna use only one, this PSU is ok, I think that you won't be able to proper powerup some dualcards like GTX 590/HD6990, but I don't think you go for this route in the future
------------------------------Core i7 2600k, Asus P8Z68 Deluxe, 16GB Patriot DDR3, 2TB HD , SLI GTX 460 1GB, XFX 750W BE, 3D Vision, CM 690 II Advanced Reply to vitornob
Approximate Purchase Date:Marchish
Budget Range: 800-1000
System Usage from Most to Least Important:Gaming, Internet Surfing, school
Parts Not Required: Monitor, Keyboard, Mouse, Operating System
Preferred Website(s) for Parts: Newegg, MicroCenter, tiger direct
Country: Usa
Parts Preferences: A good brand
Overclocking: 100% NO
SLI or Crossfire: whats this?
Monitor Resolution: 1920x 1080
Should i just wait for the new intel and the new radeons to come in insteaD?
http://www.amazon.com/OCZ-80PLUS-B [...] 341&sr=1-9 $99.99 & this item ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping
OCZ ZS Series 750W 80PLUS Bronze High Performance Power Supply compatible with Intel Sandy Bridge Core i3 i5 i7 and AMD Phenom
That board isn't meant for dual vid cards. It's a single card board. It runs dual cards @ 4x. Also that psu is weak. Look at the Antec HCG 750w for $100 and free shipping, or the OCZ ZS 750w for $100 and free shipping.
For a board look at the one I posted....the Asrock extreme3 Gen3 for $121.
------------------------------"God invented Google so you would stop asking stupid questions." Reply to Why_Me