[Solved] EAH5770 cucore temps raising to 100c

Hello everyone, first of all sorry if this isn't the correct section to post this but I believe it is.

Second... as you could guess by the title I'm having temperature problems with this card, my system specs are as follow:

Graphic Card: Asus EAH5770 cucore
Motherboard: GA-790X-DS4
CPU: Phenom 2 x2 555 BE (2,6Ghz)
RAM: 4Gb Kingston 800Mhz

Now I've tried almost everything, replacing the thermal compound by a new one (a cheap one) with no result at all, undervolting it to 1.15v, 1.2v with no difference in the temperatures and the only thing that worked is make it run at 2D speeds (400/900) so it runs at 60c celsius. The 100c (105c actually) comes from furmark 1 minute benchmark test at 1024x768, no AA, now I know furmark is made to do this but... seriously? 104c?, I live in a hot clima (Spain) but still at this time of the year the temperatures aren't that hot and I can't think what's going to happen in summer where we reach 40º easily (I have AA in my room, guess this is going to save me).

On games like Medal of Honor 2010 it maxes at 83/84 and I got an ATI driver error couple of times that I tried to OC it a bit, now it's set to default.

The default voltage setting on this card is 1.25v according to SmartDoctor, isn't it a bit high?, should I reduce it?, should it make any difference?, could all this be a problem with my powersupply (500w coolbox)?

Too many questions and no answer, I'm also thinking of buying an Arctic-Cooling Accelero L2 Pro and see what happens as I've read that people is getting -10º~ on temps.

Any help is welcome, thanks in advanced.

Updated to say that it now gets to 103º while playing MoH 2010 too, I'm kind of worried and I won't be able to play until I fix this, any ideas?

My case is open and the window aims right into it, besides that nothing really.

No, at first it was better, on Windows XP it rarely got to 75º, but now I'm not sure if that was because it used DirectX 9 and stressed the card less or it was anything else, now I'm using Windows 7 for DX11 mostly and at first it was raising to 82/83º max and only raising to 100º on furmark, but last night it got to 103º playing a regular game which never did before, I have to say that I reapplied the thermal compound and maybe that caused it, it's not my first time reapplying it so I know what I'm doing.

Nothing of the changes I make seems to have any significant drop on the temperatures, changing the fan sped from 40% to 80% sometimes doesn't even result on a 1º loss.

Now I ordered the Arctic- Cooling Accelero L2 Pro but it will take a week to arrive so I'm still looking for any solution or tip that makes the temperatures drop because right now I don't think I'll try to play again until I replace the heatsink or thermal compound for a better one.

As I said lowering the voltage from 1.25v to 1.15 (stable) made no difference and I still think 1.25v default voltage is quite high, am I wrong?, the only thing that I think could work is underclock it to a place where it keeps the card cool enough so I can use it until the replacements get here.

Edit: is it normal that it stays at 90% activity for most of the game?

Returning it is not an option as I bought it from eBay some time ago "as brand new" which it seemed, would it be a smart move to change the voltage to 1.25v with smartdoctor then?

The card is this one "http://www.agrupa.es/asus-hd-5770-1gb-cucore-radeon-ati.html" and it comes with the voltage tweak thing, it comes with the voltage a little higher to allow some OC which I'm not doing anyway.

Yea sorry, that's what I meant.

I did set it to 1.125v now, let's see what happens.

Thanks.

My case doesn't really have any extra fan, it's this one "http://www.gamegear.co.za/asus-vento-ta861-2usbaudio-300w-midi-black-pi-1964.html", was thinking on buying a new one "http://www.hard-h2o.com/images/reviews/cajas/nox-moonlight/nox-moonlight-01tb.jpg" or just add a couple of fans to my current one, but I find it very small and hard to handle when upgrading components and such, also being small I guess it's worse for airflow.

I undervolted it to 1.125v and on idle I see no difference, it's on ~50º (I have two monitors so the clocks are 400/900) and can only get it to 41º by turning AA on in my room.

Yes, it is open, but since I live in a hot clima maybe it is better to close it and put some fans, I don't know.

I'm kind of worried about the temps my gpu is getting, the cpu is ok (30 idle - 45 full load degrees), what could cause the card to stress to 90% - 99% activity?, after being there for 10 minutes it starts to raise up to 105º.

What changes should have made to change the voltage to 1.125v?


edit: Editing to say that after playing for about 20 minutes and AA on in my room the card kept cool at 75º top but still got an ATI driver not responding error, don't know what's happening, could this be because undervolting it to 1.125v?

edit again: Set the voltage to 1.150v and crashed at 76º, trying 1.2v now

Yes, I guess you are right, that would probably explain the heat problem but now that it still gives the ATI recovery thing even at 70º I'm starting to question what the real problem is, it could probably be caused because the undervolt, or just because it is faulty I guess?, wouldn't I see artifacts or other signs if it was faulty tho?

Also, what gpu benchmark could I use to test the stability?, one that doesn't stress it like furmark because I won't feel ok leaving it testing the card at 100ºc, I'll try 3dmark vantage or something like that.

I'll do that, it's not because I'm cheap to be honest, I just thought keeping it open would be better, guess I was wrong.

I'm still looking for ideas of why it crashes when playing sometimes when the temp is around 75º which is ok (of course to achieve that I have to turn AA on in my room) but just for the sake of testing I'm changing voltages, if you read this whole thread you will see I undervolted it to 1.125v as suggested but it gave ati recovery after 20 minutes, changed it to 1.150 with the same result and now I'm trying 1.2v, ran 3d mark vantage with no error but still I'm not sure where these crashes come from, if it's a voltage thing or just a faulty card, the default voltage was 1.250v.

Thanks.

You may have permanently damaged the card if you continue to get them then which means that you may have bricked you card but lets hope that you haven't fried it yet.

With the fans and other things that you bought you should be ok but be sure to keep it clean or you will be back ware you started.

Since You're using smart doctor, do oyu use the smartfan option ? and when you get the 90c~ temps is your fan running at 100% speed? if no then adjust the settings so that your fan would blow at full capacity and that should do alot of cooling

SOLVED!

I've been having similar problems - 2x 5770's in crossfire, with an ASUS D2X audio card in the 3rd PCIe slot (Rampage II Ext. MB). Running the 'Furmark' stress test was getting temps of 106-107C! 100+ in COD.
Tried updating BIOS - No success.
Removed one card - and the overheat problem went away. I could even overclock without any problems.

At this point, I figured the problem was insufficient air getting INTO the fan on the GPU (as I have an ANTEC 1200 case, with the side fan installed, it wasn't due to not enough air getting into (or out of) the case), and noted that the clearance between the GPU fan intake and the back of the adjacent card was only a couple of mm's.

I noted that the cards (Gigabyte R577UD-1) have a ring (sort of) shaped 'shroud' on the top of the plastic fan cover, which obstructed several millimeters of the clear space between each GPU and the rear of the adjacent card - so I tried cutting a 3cm slot out - tested - still no change. THEN I removed the entire shroud (just the ring shaped bit on top - it unclips easily), and tested again - SUCCESS! AN instant 20+ deg C drop in max temperature, and 15-20 C drop in idle temp. I can now overclock using the ATI auto-clocker, and general graphics performance and reliability has improved.

I finally got the Accelero L2 Pro, after installing it the temperatures dropped quite a bit, from 104º on furmark to 80º, now it sits at around 39º idle and 70º when playing.

But I can't control the RPM on the Accelero FAN, I had to use the adapter molex and it's on 12v but I can easily tell that it isn't running at max speed because I can't even hear it, also it makes no difference using the 7v adapter or the 12v, any suggestions? could it be an option in the bios?

ps: trying to control it from ccc or fanspeed has no effect because it's not connected to the graphic card (the eah5770 has a very tiny 3 pin connector while the accelero has 2 bigger ones that won't fit).

I have no problems doing this, but I would prefer getting the fan to work properly before doing so.

I sent an email to arctic cooling support and now I'm waiting for a reply, as soon as I get it to work I'll try what you said, can you tell me what tests did you do exactly?, I never really used furmark that much and never tried Prime95, so any detailed instructions would help do the test properly.

I have all the fans directly plugged in the psu and only in the power fan the front and the rear fan in system. if you have power fan connectors (see your manual will play better) this case of fans are working mostly with the PSU power leave it like this, is better, needs 4 pins fan to plug it to the card and have speed control from there.

Shuryou Confirmed and be careful finally in the sys fans the volts dropped when the CPU, card work at max and I have only the rear fan (NF-P12) in the Power Fan all the others are plugged in the PSU by doing that even in the hardest tests the speed of rear fan never drops under the 1398 and idles at 1403 minimal. You can see a HARD prime95 test 4096 FFT 4Gbytes, furmark 1.8 extreme test 35 minutes here:

http://admins.bnb.gr/~giatrakis/Pr [...] 35mins.jpg

It never breaks 65 C, now is 14:16 here at Greece and the day is hot, and it plays 63-64-65 66 max. In here the Idle after the test -3 C by putting only the rear fan to Power Fan and all the others to PSU:

http://admins.bnb.gr/~giatrakis/Pr [...] s-idle.jpg

Bottom line the OC to the card isn’t worth it the +10 C that gives is HUGE Problem and the benefit is very small 3-10 FPS the additional watts are 8 at idle and over 20 at full load i have the card at stock speed. Only the Power Fan connector drops the voltages less that all the other fans in the motherboard and if you have one connect the rear only there. A strong psu can deliver more stable power to the fans and keep your box cool.

Tell me about if you got stable ok?

This topic has been closed by Mousemonkey