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P7PP5DE-LX shutdown/reboot with aftermarket cooler, OK with stock?

I built a system 3 months ago that worked like a charm until 2 weeks ago. Out of nowhere, it began running in a boot loop where it would run for a few seconds and then shut down, only to reboot again. So on an so forth. Thinking that the cooler could be at fault (Thermaltake silent) and might have bad mounting pins, I tried to put the stock cooler back on. Voila - problem gone.

Thinking it was the Thermaltake, I went ahead and bought a Mugen 2. Went ahead and installed it and on boot up, the problem once again was back in full force.

I've tried various amounts of thermal paste (Arctic Silver 5) based off of the instructions from Arctic Silver. Still no luck. Just plopping the stock fan on there with whatever past was left over works fine.

I plan to RMA the board but I wanted to pose the question to you guys first. Any ideas?

System specs:
i5 650 - wac oc'd to 4.00ghz. Now running stock.
P5P55DE-LX with latest BIOS
8gb G-skill ram
GTX 260 (new) - it was crashing with an 8600GT
450w Power Supply (can't remember brand) - also new. Crashed with old one too.
9 answers Last reply Best Answer
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  1. The only thing that makes sense is that coolers don't make this happen.
    I have a theory that the CPU could not get cooled so it bucked.
    Download HWmonitor and provide a screen shot if you can or at least report the TMPIN0, TMPIN1, AND TMPIN2 temps.
    I'd like to say it's possible you put too much paste on bu it would take a lot to make this happen. Did you not plug the aftermarket fan into the CPU_Fan connector? Did the big coolers rest on the RAM, thus not seating?
  2. I plugged the fan into the CPU_fan connector.

    I don't know why it decides to shut down almost immediately. I get that if it were too hot and shuts down but it happens way too fast to happen. From cold boot to reboot is about 10 seconds. Even after being off all night.

    I can't boot into windows long enough to get a screen shot.

    Maybe not enough paste?
  3. 10 seconds....
    ....just about the amount of time it takes for an uncooled CPU to reach tMax and shut down.
    Either the cooler(s) are not seating tightly upon the top of the CPU, or,
    The paste should be applied molecules thin to the cooler base. So thin you should be able to almost see the brushed surface.
    You did remove the plastic protector from the new coolers right?
  4. I did remove the plastic cover from both.

    The first one is the Thermaltake 1156 Silent:
    http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?C=1417&ID=1905

    It was running fine for 3 months and then just bit it.

    I bought the Mugen Scythe 2 to see if it was something with how the thermaltake was seated since it has the plastic pins similar to the stock cooler and I don't tend to trust those that much.

    I've tried a few methods for applying the thermal paste.

    1)Put a dab on the cooler and spread it out with a credit card until it just dulls the surface of the cooler. Then put a thin link on the heat cover of the CPU. This is how the artic silver instructions say to do it.

    2)Put a dab on the heat cover of the CPU then mount the cooler.

    The dabs I am putting on are no greater than a grain of rice.

    As far as the cooler being seated properly. The thermaltake silent doesn't seem to touch anything that would prevent it from mounting flush to the cpu. The mugen hangs over the RAM but it doesn't touch anything.
  5. Best answer
    Sorry for your troubles my friend, but I'm stuck on this one.
    Wild guesses now!:
    There is a standoff leftover behind the Mobo that is only making contact with the weight of the bigger coolers?
    Quote:
    It was running fine for 3 months and then just bit it.
    Maybe a cracked developed in the Mobo which only causes a failure under stress???
    Geez, weird!
    You can't even halt POST to get into BIOS, huh?
  6. I was trying to find a short in the system and have taken the mb out of the case and put it on it's box. I was trying to find anything that could be the problem but I've run out of options.
  7. The only option left is to assume the socket is bad or that a pin is bent in it, and the weight of the coolers is causing a problem.
  8. I plan to RMA the thing. You guys were my last hope and I appreciate the help. In 14 years of building, I've never seen anything like it.
  9. Best answer selected by hgelpke.
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