Few Questions

Well heres mine then


Can't see the red/blue cables once doors closed...
both sites Omg mentioned are good, but post a little info more for us please,
specs of rig including case,
overclocking?
gfx cards in loop as well or just Cpu?
ability/desire to mod if needed (check my signature)
and lastly, budget, how much is too much for your wallet?
that little lot will help us help you a bit better
Moto

That's a healthy budget for watercooling, I spent ~£300 on my CPU only loop, although it is overkill.

Your case isn't great for watercooling out the box, you could get a slim 120.2 rad in the roof, and perhaps mount another rad externally or mod the front bay's

The only thing I've decided on at the moment is that I want a 720mm radiator to go on the side in replacement of the 220mm fan. Everything else I'm open to suggestion.

Which res? The Tvirus resses are 250ml each and the XSPC dual bay res with pump inside holds about the same I believe,
When you say cradle, do you mean the acrylic stand for Tvirus (came with) or the rails I used for the drivebay? as mentioned in the log, they're optic drive rails that came with the case,

Gpu blocks, you remove the heatsink/cooler from the card and mount the waterblock directly onto the Gpu, you will also require ramsinks to cool the memory if you use universal blocks, fullcovers are usually just for reference cards but some are available for non-ref, depends on the card tbh,
Mines finished build, but I have plans to put the gfx cards into the waterloop soon, it means more modding and another radiator to mount, I also want to keep the original shrouds on the cards so I have to find a way round things :-)
Moto

Okay so i've spent most of the day reading reviews of pumps/res etc and i've found a couple that seem pretty good.
I will be using this http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/produc [...] 720mm.html
with a cpu block and 2 gpu blocks

Will this be good enough?
http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/produc [...] -pump.html

Or am i better off spending a little bit more money and getting this
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/ [...] _1795.html
with this
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/ [...] _1453.html

I may add a 240mm radiator after i have both graphics cards so which would be the better option?

Thanks about the pump will check it out.
As for the 720 it's the biggest I can fit internally.
As for the 240, I was thinking about adding it between the CPU and GPUs.
Would a 720+240+120 work as well as a 1080 provided they were all the same standard?

D5 is an excellent pump for the money (I run one in my loop and it works great) but MCP35x is a bit better, as boiler mentions. It's also smaller, which might benefit you in mounting and pump top options if you go that route.

I'm not sure I believe that you can fit that huge radiator inside a case- you really should check how large it is. What case are you installing it INSIDE?

Erm yeah, i may have forgotten about the graphics cards when i looked at measurements because it fits both width and height. The graphics card would leave 15mm for the motherboard, so it looks like it going on the outside then. The only problem at the moment is that i think its brand new so there's no reviews or pictures. Also the holes are on top but at least i can work with that.

I think the rad has only just been released but I won't be buying it til march at the earliest so plenty of time for reviews etc.
External mount works in my favour because I can get 6 120mm fans to pull but I can also use the stock 220mm fan to push because they use different mounts.

No the 720 is going on the side where you put your window, going to put a 240 on the top, possibly a single 120 on the back.
I do want to do something to the back but as to what i have no idea at the moment. I'll just keep looking at other peoples builds etc.
I kinda changed my picture. I didn't actually have one before but your picture reminded me how much i love that film. Has to be my favourite film of all time.

I had thought of that. I'd considered seeing if the doors would literally switch over. If not see about attaching hinges to the doors.

Can the radiator be on a flat surface or does it have to be elevated to let air through? Would it just be as simple as drilling some holes in the back of the case?
Yeah I've heard of firefly but haven't seen it. I didn't want to watch it, get drawn in only to be disapointed when it finishes on a cliff hanger that I will never see the end of.

Yeah, if you mount a rad, you need to ensure there is space to allow complete airflow from one side and out the other.

Why do you have wires from the outside of your side panel?

A 220 rad probably weighs, what, maybe about 1 lb or so?

You drill or modify the length.

Welcome to watercooling, and by default, welcome to modding.

Well...it's technically my signature...I said it, you quoted it. But fair enough, it's yours to keep forever....

Fittingswise, you decide what diameter tubing you are having,
say 11mm id/16mm od,(or the imperial equivalent 3/8"/5/8" )

you then have to select fittings with an outside diameter of 5/8 or thereabouts,
so that the tubing fits tight enough not to leak, but isn't too hard to get onto the fitting
If you mount the rad on the door panel, you can have the fans blowing into the case, I'd remove the 220mm fan as well and just let the radfans push air into the case along with the two intakes at the front, top and rear stay exhaust,
and rather than thinking you're dragging this out, we admire the fact that your learning and avoiding future fkups
too many threads here start with 'I to is fitting watercooling now my house burned down and my feet are wet'
better to learn first then apply I reckon
@Rubix, I tried finding the original thread where I said that and you quoted it and said, "^This needs to be your sig" but can't,
either way at least people see the wisdom, whoever said it
Moto

Yeah sorry that's the one for the first pump I found.
This is the correct one
http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/produc [...] -pump.html

Does tubing size affect performance at all or is some just more flexible than others or something?

I think that's what someone said when the WC forum went live...'make your sig into a sticky'. Might have to do something like this...

Tubing size does, but only when you get smaller than 3/8"ID. 3/8"ID, 7/16"ID and 1/2"ID are the most common, with 1/2 being the most mostest commonly used. Flexible tubing is usually those that have a thicker tubing wall, typically about 1/8" or so. So, when looking at tubing, there are usually 2 dimensions, ID and OD. For instance, my tubing is Primochill LRT blue 1/2"ID and 5/8"OD...meaning the difference is 1/8" tubing wall...it flexes well without kinking.

It's been a long couple days...this was what I meant... I have 1/2"ID 3/4"OD Primo LRT. But they do make thin walled 1/2"ID 5/8"OD as well.

This actually was intentional, while most of my other screw-ups are accidental.

It shouldn't start changing color, but the general rule is ~6 months. It's kind of a case-by-case sort of deal. If your loop was prepped right (everything washed properly prior to installation, biocide, etc.) you don't have to flush as often. really the only things that can change the water color are biological growth, dirty components (metal shavings from manufacture, etc), or metal-metal reactions (which shouldn't happen if you don't mix metals).

You have a few options. If you are going to use a bayres, you can empty the loop via the fillport. You can also add a T- or Y-fitting and a plug fitting to create a small drainage loop without compromising flow rates. Feel free to be inventive here, as adding these options isn't really one-size-fits-all.

Not sure here. It may help to add something that will stabilize the rad, as it may bend the case panel.

I'd assume it's cleaner, but I don't know how much cleaner. Normal distilled water from the grocery store is generally clean enough. It's probably not worth 100%+ of the price of distilled for the marginal increase in cleanliness.