Hey everyone, I'm trying to get together a custom loop to cool the system in my sig. I'm heavily overclocked.

What I have so far is:

Pump:

Swiftech MCP350
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6835108063

GPU Blocks:

Swiftech MCW60 VGA Cooling Water-block with Ramsinks
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6835108077

CPU Block:

Swiftech Apogee GT
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6835108093

Radiator:

ThermoChill PA120.3 w/shroud
http://www.dangerden.com/store/pro [...] ductid=205

And will use the Maximus' stock waterblock for the NB.


What reservoir is recommended? Am I forgetting anything? Any help is greatly appreciated.

From where Ive been looking...the D-Tek Fusion is the best CPU block

The Swiftech micro res. seems to be popular

+ on the Swiftech micro res

-Need three 120mm fans for the radiator. For this rad, CFM anywhere from 50 - 100.
-Need about 10 hose clamps
-Need about 10 feet of tubing. I'd go with 7/16" ID Tygon or MasterKleer.
-Need Additive - recommend either swiftech HydrX or pentoison plus PT Nuke from Petra's. Could go with an all-in-one like PC Ice.
- Need a couple of gallons of Distilled water.

There are a few things that should be considered here if you do intend on heavily o'clocking. First, do you just intend on o'clocking the CPU or the GPU as well - this could really influence what you might choose as far as cooling solution compoennts because if you intend on o'clocking all the major components then some of them may end up sufferring from the heat of the other components before the coolant hits the rad.

In a single rad solution, it really doesn't matter how good the rad is if you heavily o'clock thigns like both the CPU and GPU (and the effects will worsen if you are in SLI or Crossfire). One component (presumably the CPU - assuming it is first in line AFTER the pump) will benefit fromt he heat exchange of the rad but the components that follow the CPU will have to deal, not with just their own heat but the heat from the CPU as well. I only mention this because you said that you heavily o'clock but you didn't mention - specifically - which components.

Thanks for all the replies!


@phreejak
I only really delve into the CPU OCing, the cards are *slightly* overclocked but it's only a 3-4c difference under full load on air.

The EK Supreme is actually 1 or 2 degrees better than the Dtek and cheaper too.

For fans Id get as powerful ones as possible but dont go over 30dba as you probably will not like the sound!

For me the favored tubing is 1/2inch. So thick and strong and tons of water transfer.

Reccomended res.. well a small one is better IMO it makes no difference really, I use one of the 150mm XPSC passive res and I dont like it much lol, too big.

1/2 ID tubing will be a little easier to fit on to barbs. 7/16 ID tubing is only slightly smaller and will give you a tighter and more secure fit. EITHER will work nicely. Your choice.

BTW hawkspur, how do you like that case? I have the original Armor. I love it, but cable management is a challenge. Looks like TT may have fixed that with the ArmorPlus.

go with tygon thick walled 1/2id tubeing i got it and it doesnt kink, it looks like you have money to burn so id sujest a much more powerful pump im useing a alphacool ap1510, and a ek supreme which is the best waterblock out there but you need good pressure because it had a big pressure drop. rad is fine you cant get any better, gpu block just go for cheapest they all do the same job equally aswell. as long as its full cover(mem aswell as gpu)

As far as a CPU block is concerned, you couldn't go wrong with the Apogee GTX, the D-Tek Fuzion (with nozzle kit) or the EK Supreme - those are pretty much the top three and they all function within a few degrees of each other.

With the size of your cooling loop and the number of waterblocks you might be involving you might consider a slightly more powerful pump to power it.

If you will be going to a 1/2 ID setup then I'd recommend the MCP655 (DD5 Laing) which is naturally setup for 1/2 connections. It is very powerful 1400LPH and is dead quiet. The AP1510 from alphacool is slightly more powerful (1500LPH) but has the DC voltage converter that comes with it that you have to place and it has a 21 - 35dBa sound level which is noticeable.

The GPU block you've listed is nice - and it will produce far better results than the fullbody gpu waterblocks. I don't think there are very many GPU waterblocks out for your vid card right now so your choice is an excellent one. If you use a fullbody waterblock then you'll have to deal with the pressure drop due to all the tight bends and turns of the water channel.

I don't really recommend the Apogee GTX.

I've been reading around lately on watercooling and the GTX has a problem with the aluminum top and Galvanic corrosion. You could get the copper top but its $30 on top of the $70 for the block and $100 seems like a rip to me.

@OP: You seem to have a good amount of cash to spend (based on that computer in your sig) so I would not wimp out on any parts. Full blocks seem silly to me because as soon as you get a new card you have to change the blocks. But that Swiftech is very universal and probably still be used. Also if you want the best performance you might want to run 2 separate loops. 1 for the CPU and 1 for the 2 GPUs.

No doubt you'd get better performance with separate loops for 2 GPUs and a cpu. But it means two pumps and two rads. That's not a problem - just a consideration.

@Tony

The case is great, suberb airflow, and cable management was a breeze. It came with 3 different kinds of zip ties and clips and has plenty of extra room. It is a little heavy and big, but that isn't too much of an issue.

@Everyone else

Thanks a bunch for all the info, very very helpful . I think I'm going to go with half inch tubing and the MCP655 as the pump. I'm not to do two loops as the GPUs are going to be on the end of the loop and can take the extra heat anyways, course I might change my mind depending on what the temps are once I get everything set up.

On tubing...I suggest 7/16" tubing.

It is just as good but will make a better leak-proof seal on the 1/2" barbs. Just dip the end in hot water to make it expand and then get it over the barb