
The easy solution to any memory debate concerning the latest processors might sound simple: just buy 1.5 volt DDR3-1066 (PC3-8500). All Socket AM3, LGA 1156, and LGA 1366 processors are designed to support at least this memory speed. It's inexpensive as both 1GB and 2GB sticks and its available in both dual-channel and triple-channel kits. Yet there are small performance benefits for similarly-priced DDR3-1333 (PC3-10600), and this speed functions normally, even with processors that are not officially designated to use it (mostly early-model Core i7 processors based on the Bloomfield design, for example).
Moving up to DDR3-1600 (PC3-12800) requires a little more consideration. First of all, many DDR3-1600 modules require a nonstandard 1.65V BIOS setting or higher (up to 1.9V) simply to run at its rated speed. Most boards will automatically select 1.5V, which is why many modules are detected at a slower speed determined by the manufacturer to be stable at the lower voltage. This explains why neophytes have been seen rushing, upset, to the Tom’s Hardware Forums when their DDR3-1600 modules are detected as DDR3-1333 or DDR3-1066.
Intel XMP (Extreme Memory Profiles) and EPP 2.0 (Enhanced Performance Profiles) are competing technologies that add overclocking data to the automatic-detection ROM, telling certain motherboards exactly how to overclock some models of performance memory. The use of overclocking profiles still requires the builder to enter the BIOS and manually select the profile they want their motherboard to use, and the use of XMP or EPP 2.0 profiles often overclocks other parts of the system, too.
Memory faster than DDR3-1600 is usually expensive and not really required. Our tests have shown that faster memory doesn’t add noticeably to the performance of applications, and even overclockers can reach the limits of their other components without exceeding DDR3-1600 data rates by simply using a lower DRAM multiplier.
But what about low-cost systems that still use dated DDR2 memory? PC2-5300 (DDR2-667) is so common that 1GB modules can be found for as little as $25. Because it's so cheap, there's no need to choose slower PC2-4200 in any new system build, even if the processor runs at a slower bus speed. You might even do better and find DDR2-800 for the same price.
In terms of memory quantity, Tom's Hardware recommends at least 1GB for the cheapest single-task 32-bit Windows systems. Users with a 64-bit version of Windows should have at least 2GB for light tasks and 4GB for regular use of 64-bit programs or heavy multitasking. Users who run multiple memory-intensive programs simultaneously can usually live with 8GB, and those who need more than 8GB are probably completely aware of their needs already.
Our memory reviews show a wide range of options, and buying name-brand modules with lifetime warranties from reputable venders is good insurance against "unexplained" system instability.
- Part 1: Component Selection
- Processor And Graphics Selection
- Motherboard Options
- Remember The Memory!
- Hard Drive Selection
- Power Supplies And Other Components
- Part 2: Choosing The Right Vendor
- Purchase Price
- Integrity
- Part 3: Putting It All Together
- Installing The CPU
- Installing The CPU Cooler
- Installing The Power Supply And Motherboard
- Installing Other Components
- Motherboard Cable Installation
- Device Cable Installation
- Final Words
Or for those of us in the uk, check out
scan.co.uk
ebuyer.co.uk
overclockers.co.uk
DO NOT install your motherboard like this. Have all the screws in place before tightening.
However, when overclocking 8pins will give you far more stability and is highly recommended.
Except for the fact that the hibernate file =RAM size say 4Gb, and outlook files (can't be moved from C
Do you mean the Outlook pst can't be moved from C? I've three customers in the building here that I've moved all the 'local' Outlook data to a network drive...
I investiagted that for a while and found nothing to help, but I guess it can be done though. I was running a 30Gb ssd as a system drive (vista 64) and it kept creeping up to 25Gb+ will all folders on a different drive etc.
However in an article about building a system to have the fairly advanced need to move certain systems files around or turn them off, without actually stating that you'll need to do it is a bit of a discrepancy, i'd bet that 90% of people that know how to run a light installation of windows already know how to build, and that 90% of those that don't know how to build but might want have limited windows installation/customisation skills. So it appears that the article is aimed that software literate but hardware illiterate people, seems like a really small group to me.
Price range is cheap as poss without being crap.
Editing HD video and games is the point. Looks like I’ve got a few weeks read.
Also an Nvidia 8000 series card or ATI HD46xx upwardsfor accelerated render.
Also an Nvidia 8000 series card or ATI HD46xx upwardsfor accelerated render.
I've used them twice, both times i bought an "own brand" scan item that arrived DOA and took weeks to get any kind of response and refund.
used them lots, returned items, not had any trouble, refunds take a while with anyone including amazon... I think own brand is generally an issue, although with nvidia etc. its just a re-badge.
Never had a problem with scan before. I never buy own brand products where my PC's involved!
1. AMD Phenom II X4 Quad 955 Core 3.2GHz Processor 4 x 512 KB Boxed - Black Edition
2. Gigabyte GA-MA790X-UD3P Motherboard Phenom II X4 Socket AM3 AMD 790X ATX RAID Gigabit Ethernet
3. Kingston ValueRAM Memory DDR3 Non-ECC CL8 DIMM 1GB (need two)
4. Western Digital Caviar Blue 250 Gb 7200 Rpm Sata-ii Internal Hard Drive
5. Samsung SH-S223L/BEBE Internal 22x DVD Writer Drive SATA Lightscribe - Black (OEM)
6. Corsair VX Series, 450 Watt, ATX, PS/2, Power Supply, UK Version (CMPSU-450VXUK)
7. Asus EAH4350 SILENT/DI/256MD2(LP) Graphics Card Radeon HD 4350 256MB PCi-E DVI VGA (90-C1CM1F-H0UANAKZ)
8. LG L1734S 17 inch LCD TFT Monitor 1280x1024 700:1 5ms - Black/Silver
9. Hercules Muse LT PCI sound card
10. Edimax EW-7128G Wireless LAN PCI Card 802.11b/g 54Mbp (Ralink)
11. Antec Three Hundred Midi Case
I know i'll need a few extra fans for the case, but will I need a CPU-cooler, or will I get one with the processor? And do I need a 'controller', or is it bundled along in there somewhere?
Even more importantly, can someone confirm that these components are compatible?
Would appreciate any help, guys.
1. AMD Phenom II X4 Quad 955 Core 3.2GHz Processor 4 x 512 KB Boxed - Black Edition
2. Gigabyte GA-MA790X-UD3P Motherboard Phenom II X4 Socket AM3 AMD 790X ATX RAID Gigabit Ethernet
3. Kingston ValueRAM Memory DDR3 Non-ECC CL8 DIMM 1GB (need two)
4. Western Digital Caviar Blue 250 Gb 7200 Rpm Sata-ii Internal Hard Drive
5. Samsung SH-S223L/BEBE Internal 22x DVD Writer Drive SATA Lightscribe - Black (OEM)
6. Corsair VX Series, 450 Watt, ATX, PS/2, Power Supply, UK Version (CMPSU-450VXUK)
7. Asus EAH4350 SILENT/DI/256MD2(LP) Graphics Card Radeon HD 4350 256MB PCi-E DVI VGA (90-C1CM1F-H0UANAKZ)
8. LG L1734S 17 inch LCD TFT Monitor 1280x1024 700:1 5ms - Black/Silver
9. Hercules Muse LT PCI sound card
10. Edimax EW-7128G Wireless LAN PCI Card 802.11b/g 54Mbp (Ralink)
11. Antec Three Hundred Midi Case
I know i'll need a few extra fans for the case, but will I need a CPU-cooler, or will I get one with the processor? And do I need a 'controller', or is it bundled along in there somewhere?
Even more importantly, can someone confirm that these components are compatible?
Would appreciate any help, guys.