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What are Safe temps for SFF 1080p Gaming rig - i5-7600k - Engine 27 or Cryorig C7

The build is this SFF Carry-on compatible system I built for my son. https://pcpartpicker.com/b/mxxG3C

i5-7600k, 8gb ddr4, 128gb m.2 ssd, 1tb hdd, 970 strix GPU, MSI Z270i carbon AC mobo, Tt 700W 80+ PSU and Cooler Master Elite 120 ITX SFF Case.

As an engineer, my concern with this small of a build was heat. With the solid front face, it looks nice but limits air intake. Hard to pass up for $30 locally though. I considered the SilverStone SG13, but ended up with the CM 120 instead.

Initial tests with the (2) 120mm fans, (1) 80mm fan as intakes and without the 970 strix of prime95 got a high core temp of 93c. So I stopped the test. Ran intels tester and got 91c.

Removed the 2nd 3.5" HDD (measly 250gb from old build) and turned the 80mm around to be an exhaust. Note: the PSU is facing up so its getting cool air for itself instead of fighting the CPU cooler. This is what I've learned from reading about the case and how people got their systems to run cooler.

Installed the 970 strix, (Both 120mm are intake front to back and 80mm is side exhaust in line with GPU) ran tests again and prime95 got to 83c and intel 81c. Roughly 10c difference. Granted ambient is pretty cool considering it is winter. I'd say it was 19c-20c in the house.

Been running gaming sessions of Just Cause 3, Rise of the Tomb raider and Crysis 3. On the highest settings I could run at 1080p since he'd be using this on a TV anyways.

Been keeping logs with HWinfo

JC3 lingers around 65-70c with an occasional random/short spike to 79c. ROTR is similar and hovers around 70c. Crysis 3 lingers around 68-73c with a random small spike to 81c.

As a reminder this is with ambient being at or around 20c. What concerns me is summer heat/humidity where it can get to 25c+.

Are these temps 'ok'? Am I worrying too much? I guess I just figure it can always be better.

Considering swapping the Engine 27 for a Cryorig C7. The 70w tdp of the engine 27 may work for a larger more ventilated case or less demanding system, but I worry it won't be up to snuff for warmer ambient temps with this 84W tdp CPU. The C7 seems to be the go-to for tiny clearances. I considered the Noctua but read while its quiet it is 1-2 degrees warmer. So in this case I want to squeeze out as much cooling as possible. And since the computer will be several feet away, noise isn't a huge deal.
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More about safe temps sff 1080p gaming rig 7600k engine cryorig
  1. Woah just seen some pictures of the engine and that seems to be your problem. These temperatures are heading towards the max that chip can handle so i would suggest upgrading to the C7 immediately.

    Upgrading to this would drastically decrease your temperatures and get them to around normal.\

    However that is a really nice build for your son :)
  2. I wouldn't replace the Engine 27. While the C7 does cool better than Engine 27, it's not by a whole lot.

    https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/2806-thermaltake-engine-27-review-vs-silverstone-and-cryorig/page-2

    I would highly recommend a delid instead. It will reduce temperatures more than getting a slightly better cooler. And if you already bought the Engine you're just throwing money away by buying a new one. You probably should have gotten the C7 in the first place, but that's besides the point.

    A delid should bring temps down about 10C with liquid metal, which is more than you would get by getting a C7.
  3. Tyler Paul_1 said:
    Woah just seen some pictures of the engine and that seems to be your problem. These temperatures are heading towards the max that chip can handle so i would suggest upgrading to the C7 immediately.

    Upgrading to this would drastically decrease your temperatures and get them to around normal.\

    However that is a really nice build for your son :)


    Well the temps during the initial stress tests were worrisome since they passed 90c. After some changes though I got the stress test temps into the low/mid 80C range.

    My question is mainly regarding idle the temps are around 35-45c and actual use/gaming the temps hover around 65-73c for like 95% of the gaming session...with an occasional brief random spike to 80c. These temps seem 'fine' for now. My concern is these temps are with a low ambient of <20c. I worry when summer comes around and ambient goes up to 25c+ that temps will shift higher around the mid/high 70s.

    Im stuck with air cooling as he will be taking this as his carry on when he travels between our houses over the summer/winter breaks.
  4. richsholm said:
    Tyler Paul_1 said:
    Woah just seen some pictures of the engine and that seems to be your problem. These temperatures are heading towards the max that chip can handle so i would suggest upgrading to the C7 immediately.

    Upgrading to this would drastically decrease your temperatures and get them to around normal.\

    However that is a really nice build for your son :)


    Well the temps during the initial stress tests were worrisome since they passed 90c. After some changes though I got the stress test temps into the low/mid 80C range.

    My question is mainly regarding idle the temps are around 35-45c and actual use/gaming the temps hover around 65-73c for like 95% of the gaming session...with an occasional brief random spike to 80c. These temps seem 'fine' for now. My concern is these temps are with a low ambient of <20c. I worry when summer comes around and ambient goes up to 25c+ that temps will shift higher around the mid/high 70s.

    Im stuck with air cooling as he will be taking this as his carry on when he travels between our houses over the summer/winter breaks.


    Those temps are a tad high but within safe limits. Prolonged high temps do lead to degradation of the chip over time however. If It's spiking up to 80C I would do something about it.

    Not to mention the fact that it is increasing case temps, and most likely affecting the GPU as well.

    As I mentioned earlier, the Engine 27 is fine. I would look into a delid as that would decrease temps more than a slightly better cooler would.
  5. EpIckFa1LJoN said:
    I wouldn't replace the Engine 27. While the C7 does cool better than Engine 27, it's not by a whole lot.

    https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/2806-thermaltake-engine-27-review-vs-silverstone-and-cryorig/page-2

    I would highly recommend a delid instead. It will reduce temperatures more than getting a slightly better cooler. And if you already bought the Engine you're just throwing money away by buying a new one. You probably should have gotten the C7 in the first place, but that's besides the point.

    A delid should bring temps down about 10C with liquid metal, which is more than you would get by getting a C7.


    I did see that article and it seemed promising to me to swap. At idle it seemed fine, but at load there was a 6-7 degree difference in favor of the C7. Not to mention that test is running a i3-6300 which is 51w vs the 7600k which is 84w so I could only imagine the C7 would further cool the hotter chip.

    I considered a delid as I have seen some impressive results from 10c to 25c cooler depending on the chipset. I have also seen reports that it didn't lower temps by a significnat amount <5c. So it seems to vary considerably. I think delidding is my last resort.

    As for buying the engine 27, it was part of a computer bundle I got so I'm not 'out' too much in all honesty. In no way did I pay the $50 for it...I would've gone with the noctua or c7 if I was buying new. Figure I get the C7 (have a $25 amazon GC) and I can turn around and sell the engine 27 locally or ebay for $25ish.

    The main question is about temps, then what the solution would be to lower temps if my temps were not 'ok'. I feel they are 'ok'...but worry about summer ambient and after typing this out Im starting to think I should just get the C7 to shave off as many degrees as I can before a delid. I want this to run well since I'm sending it to him and won't be there to troubleshoot in the event anything go awry.
  6. EpIckFa1LJoN said:
    richsholm said:
    Tyler Paul_1 said:
    Woah just seen some pictures of the engine and that seems to be your problem. These temperatures are heading towards the max that chip can handle so i would suggest upgrading to the C7 immediately.

    Upgrading to this would drastically decrease your temperatures and get them to around normal.\

    However that is a really nice build for your son :)


    Well the temps during the initial stress tests were worrisome since they passed 90c. After some changes though I got the stress test temps into the low/mid 80C range.

    My question is mainly regarding idle the temps are around 35-45c and actual use/gaming the temps hover around 65-73c for like 95% of the gaming session...with an occasional brief random spike to 80c. These temps seem 'fine' for now. My concern is these temps are with a low ambient of <20c. I worry when summer comes around and ambient goes up to 25c+ that temps will shift higher around the mid/high 70s.

    Im stuck with air cooling as he will be taking this as his carry on when he travels between our houses over the summer/winter breaks.


    Those temps are a tad high but within safe limits. Prolonged high temps do lead to degradation of the chip over time however. If It's spiking up to 80C I would do something about it.

    Not to mention the fact that it is increasing case temps, and most likely affecting the GPU as well.

    As I mentioned earlier, the Engine 27 is fine. I would look into a delid as that would decrease temps more than a slightly better cooler would.


    Thats my thought...they are fine but prolonged use would ultimately shorten the product life of the components.
  7. Are you overclocking? With a fairly high OC that seems about right for that case. But without oc I generally don't hit 60C even in mid summer.
    If you're worried about temps, I'd look into something roomier on sale by the time summer comes.
    While 7700k was famous for temp issues and delidding, the i5 was not due to much lower wattage. I wouldn't personally as temps really shouldn't be that much of an issue with this chip. Just get a better cooling case.
  8. Sedivy said:
    Are you overclocking? With a fairly high OC that seems about right for that case. But without oc I generally don't hit 60C even in mid summer.
    If you're worried about temps, I'd look into something roomier on sale by the time summer comes.
    While 7700k was famous for temp issues and delidding, the i5 was not due to much lower wattage. I wouldn't personally as temps really shouldn't be that much of an issue with this chip. Just get a better cooling case.


    Negative on OC. Purely stock temps on this 7600k.

    That's the thing, my itx build in the Tt Core V1 and 6600k with Cryorig H7 cooler is typically in the 50s at all times during the same games and settings. Granted that's a better ventilated 2 chamber style case, much larger cpu cooler and a 6600k vs the 7600k.

    As for case options, it has to fit in a carryon luggage so that limits things. This case fits. I figure the SG13 case easily fits but would experience similar temps.

    Thinking C7 would help some more...a slight undervolt or would swapping in the 6600k at stock temps make more sense? Or would that just run the same temps as the 7600k?
  9. Might be slightly cooler but I don't think it'd make much difference with that case.
    If you want better airflow but still to fit in carryon (assuming you mean airport carry-on sizes), try something like fractal design's meshify C which though a mid tower is super small sized. I think that definitely fits most airline carry on sizes (http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/meshify/meshify-c). Even smaller if you take its feet off to fit in bag.
    Its cooling performance is very good, even out of the box, not adding all the fans it can normally support, http://bit-tech.net/reviews/tech/cases/fractal-design-meshify-c-review/3/
    and keep in mind it's competing here with mid-tower cases which tend to be cooler than itx.
    That being said, I'm not a fan of carrying computers around with air coolers still mounted.
    If you're a fan of more boxy design, carbide 240 comes to mind as airflow friendly but smaller and boxier than meshify. Bitfenix prodigy is another one that comes to mind (if you get black one with mesh front).
  10. Sedivy said:
    Might be slightly cooler but I don't think it'd make much difference with that case.
    If you want better airflow but still to fit in carryon (assuming you mean airport carry-on sizes), try something like fractal design's meshify C which though a mid tower is super small sized. I think that definitely fits most airline carry on sizes (http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/meshify/meshify-c). Even smaller if you take its feet off to fit in bag.
    Its cooling performance is very good, even out of the box, not adding all the fans it can normally support, http://bit-tech.net/reviews/tech/cases/fractal-design-meshify-c-review/3/
    and keep in mind it's competing here with mid-tower cases which tend to be cooler than itx.


    As nice as that case is, it wont fit his carry on. Keep in mind carry on dimensions are exterior luggage (14 x 9 x 22). So really its more like you get 8 x 13 x 21 for interior dimensions. That Fractal case is 15.5 x 8.3 x 17.3...so just a hair too wide.

    Trying to keep in the case we got to avoid unnecessary expenses/changes to the budget. Figure the C7 would help...both the 120mm intake fans in there are 40+cfm so there should be sufficient intake and that 80mm is working as the exhaust.
  11. The thing is for cooling, airflow matters, meaning both cool air sucked in and warm air pumped out. Getting a bigger cpu cooler won't help if you're not having equally big fan to take that warm air and push it out of the case. Otherwise it just sits and recycles inside, and better cpu cooler won't make much difference cause overall case temp is much higher than where it should be. One option, though I do not recommend this as it considerably decreases their lifespan, but one option is to rotate your psu so it's also sucking warm air out of the case instead of pulling it in from outside. This of course will warm the psu considerably but top mounted psus pumping warm air out were a staple of pcs for years, before better designs came along.
    If you have openings on the right side of the case, another option is an aio cpu cooler sucking air out of the case and expelling it to the right. That would help considerably. To the left you can then (if it'll fit) add a fan to help pump cool air straight at the gpu. Well...ideas to try out if you have the option.
    If you do aio, don't do psu and vice versa, so as not to create negative pressure and negate the benefit of aio.
  12. Sedivy said:
    The thing is for cooling, airflow matters, meaning both cool air sucked in and warm air pumped out. Getting a bigger cpu cooler won't help if you're not having equally big fan to take that warm air and push it out of the case. Otherwise it just sits and recycles inside, and better cpu cooler won't make much difference cause overall case temp is much higher than where it should be. One option, though I do not recommend this as it considerably decreases their lifespan, but one option is to rotate your psu so it's also sucking warm air out of the case instead of pulling it in from outside. This of course will warm the psu considerably but top mounted psus pumping warm air out were a staple of pcs for years, before better designs came along.
    If you have openings on the right side of the case, another option is an aio cpu cooler sucking air out of the case and expelling it to the right. That would help considerably. To the left you can then (if it'll fit) add a fan to help pump cool air straight at the gpu. Well...ideas to try out if you have the option.
    If you do aio, don't do psu and vice versa, so as not to create negative pressure and negate the benefit of aio.


    Definitely appreciate the info. Agree on increasing the exhaust. Have read about flipping the PSU and I may still try it, but other argue it'll fight the CPU cooler for 'cool' air. Currently the only large openings for exhaust are the right panel which has the 80mm exhaust fan. The left side is taken up by the GPU which is intaking cool air and the back is more or less covered so the front fans are pushing air thru any small vents/cracks in the back. I have seen people put a 120mm slim fan on the side to replace the puny 80mm fan.

    Currently I think due to my fans I have positive pressure happening.
  13. Yes currently it is positive pressure. I mistakenly thought you could fit 2x120mm at the front so you'd have more leeway for flipping the psu. 80mm on the right side is also very small...but..on images, that perforated window looks bigger. Is it just a matter of no premade holes for 120mm size fan or is it truly that the cutouts are only 80mm in height? Cause a bit of dremel action could potentially fix the former.
    Edit:nm I see it set up and it's hitting the psu up top if it's bigger. It'd literally have to be mounted on the outside to fit and even then, the extra height would just be sucking air from psu overhang.
    Hmm I really don't know. Maybe a little better front static pressure fan but...considering the drive cages in the way, none of that will make night and day difference. Maybe if SSDs, to try and mount them to the bottom, and take out the drive cages. That would improve the flow. But I'm assuming cages are soldered and not modular so that's no help. Your gpu is exhausting into the case and that's probably the biggest problem here. The founders edition which blows warm air out the back would bring down temps in the case considerably, even with as few fans as you have though itself would then run a bit hotter. None of this helps you so not sure what else to recommend.
  14. Sedivy said:
    Yes currently it is positive pressure. I mistakenly thought you could fit 2x120mm at the front so you'd have more leeway for flipping the psu. 80mm on the right side is also very small...but..on images, that perforated window looks bigger. Is it just a matter of no premade holes for 120mm size fan or is it truly that the cutouts are only 80mm in height? Cause a bit of dremel action could potentially fix the former.
    Edit:nm I see it set up and it's hitting the psu up top if it's bigger. It'd literally have to be mounted on the outside to fit and even then, the extra height would just be sucking air from psu overhang.
    Hmm I really don't know. Maybe a little better front static pressure fan but...considering the drive cages in the way, none of that will make night and day difference. Maybe if SSDs, to try and mount them to the bottom, and take out the drive cages. That would improve the flow. But I'm assuming cages are soldered and not modular so that's no help. Your gpu is exhausting into the case and that's probably the biggest problem here. The founders edition which blows warm air out the back would bring down temps in the case considerably, even with as few fans as you have.


    Right. So There is (1) 120mm fan right behind the front panel...then the HDD cage....then I have another 120mm fan mounted to the HDD cage. So the HDD cage is sandwiched between (2) 120mm fans both acting as intake.

    As for the side fan I have seen someone mod the panel to house a slim 120mm fan like pictured below, but its like you said, part of it is blocked by the PSU but it would most likely put out more CFM than the puny 80mm.

    I'm gonna try the C7, and if I can find a decent deal on a blower style GPU may go that route. Last resort for GPU is going with a 1050ti for the mean time. Run a lot lower GPU TDP should help as well.



    This guy added a 120mm as well
  15. Oh I really like that 120side fan configuration. It would actually be better than the 80mm which also has that metal thing around it that to me blocks more than helps. Taking that out would be great. 80mm also buzzes like a mosquito so any mod that gets rid of it is worth doing.
    I didn't mean to suggest going for a new gpu, that would cost way way too much in current gpu market cause of cryptomining. I was considering maybe an alternative shroud but all the third party shroud replacements being sold that I've seen are actually blowing into the case as well and not out the back. Maybe...maybe only getting a shroud for that card that has been taken off of a founder's edition card, and being sold on ebay. That might be cheap and effective enough to work. Sort of something like: https://www.ebay.com/itm/GTX-970-MSI-AFTERBURNER-COOLER-BLOWER-FAN-GPU-HEATSINK-COOLER-ONLY/122947429685?hash=item1ca03ce535:g:sqsAAOSw37BadORu
  16. richsholm said:
    Sedivy said:
    The thing is for cooling, airflow matters, meaning both cool air sucked in and warm air pumped out. Getting a bigger cpu cooler won't help if you're not having equally big fan to take that warm air and push it out of the case. Otherwise it just sits and recycles inside, and better cpu cooler won't make much difference cause overall case temp is much higher than where it should be. One option, though I do not recommend this as it considerably decreases their lifespan, but one option is to rotate your psu so it's also sucking warm air out of the case instead of pulling it in from outside. This of course will warm the psu considerably but top mounted psus pumping warm air out were a staple of pcs for years, before better designs came along.
    If you have openings on the right side of the case, another option is an aio cpu cooler sucking air out of the case and expelling it to the right. That would help considerably. To the left you can then (if it'll fit) add a fan to help pump cool air straight at the gpu. Well...ideas to try out if you have the option.
    If you do aio, don't do psu and vice versa, so as not to create negative pressure and negate the benefit of aio.


    Definitely appreciate the info. Agree on increasing the exhaust. Have read about flipping the PSU and I may still try it, but other argue it'll fight the CPU cooler for 'cool' air. Currently the only large openings for exhaust are the right panel which has the 80mm exhaust fan. The left side is taken up by the GPU which is intaking cool air and the back is more or less covered so the front fans are pushing air thru any small vents/cracks in the back. I have seen people put a 120mm slim fan on the side to replace the puny 80mm fan.

    Currently I think due to my fans I have positive pressure happening.


    i had a similiar situation with a SFF case, and this case, a silverstone, the only way you could mount the PSU was so it was drawing air from above the cpu and with limited space between the lower side of the PSU and the stock intel cooler - not only was it fighting the cooler fan for air but also causing negative air pressure

    what epicfailjon said about delidding - it's going to be the most effective and economical choice
    2nd choice, look at the CFM of the fans that you have and compare with noctua fans - they are the premier fans in terms of quiet and volume of air they pull or push thru the case https://noctua.at/en/products/fan

    but just what you'd pay for two noctua fans will equal what a delid would cost siliconelottery.com will do it for basically what you'd pay for the delidding tool and the liquid metal

    personally, those temps aren't bad, but if you're concerned with higher temps in the summer, again the delid is the way to go. But to give you some comfort, intel has built in thermal limiter in the cpu, most intel CPUs have a max of 100C - mine does. When i first built my first pc, i relied on the motherboard's mfgr's "performance monitoring utility" for temps, and i noticed it never went above 67C. One day i downloaded HWMonitor and it showed the cpu bouncing between 98 to 100C, back and forth. Downloaded Intel's XTU utility and it showed the same.

    For 3 months i'd rendered video files, 2-3/day, 1.5 - 3 hour jobs each, with the cpu running those temps at 100% load. I corrected the issue, but the point is intel's thermal limiter, at 100C would throttle the cpu's load back to let it cool some. That apparently saved my cpu - reason i say that, is every time i run a benchmark in XTU and then let intel compare it to others online running the same mobo and cpu, i'm within the top 5% benchmark score, so i didn't suffer much in the way of degradiation, and that computer is still going strong 3 years later (it's not the one in my sig below).
  17. The Original Ralph said:
    richsholm said:
    Sedivy said:
    The thing is for cooling, airflow matters, meaning both cool air sucked in and warm air pumped out. Getting a bigger cpu cooler won't help if you're not having equally big fan to take that warm air and push it out of the case. Otherwise it just sits and recycles inside, and better cpu cooler won't make much difference cause overall case temp is much higher than where it should be. One option, though I do not recommend this as it considerably decreases their lifespan, but one option is to rotate your psu so it's also sucking warm air out of the case instead of pulling it in from outside. This of course will warm the psu considerably but top mounted psus pumping warm air out were a staple of pcs for years, before better designs came along.
    If you have openings on the right side of the case, another option is an aio cpu cooler sucking air out of the case and expelling it to the right. That would help considerably. To the left you can then (if it'll fit) add a fan to help pump cool air straight at the gpu. Well...ideas to try out if you have the option.
    If you do aio, don't do psu and vice versa, so as not to create negative pressure and negate the benefit of aio.


    Definitely appreciate the info. Agree on increasing the exhaust. Have read about flipping the PSU and I may still try it, but other argue it'll fight the CPU cooler for 'cool' air. Currently the only large openings for exhaust are the right panel which has the 80mm exhaust fan. The left side is taken up by the GPU which is intaking cool air and the back is more or less covered so the front fans are pushing air thru any small vents/cracks in the back. I have seen people put a 120mm slim fan on the side to replace the puny 80mm fan.

    Currently I think due to my fans I have positive pressure happening.


    i had a similiar situation with a SFF case, and this case, a silverstone, the only way you could mount the PSU was so it was drawing air from above the cpu and with limited space between the lower side of the PSU and the stock intel cooler - not only was it fighting the cooler fan for air but also causing negative air pressure

    what epicfailjon said about delidding - it's going to be the most effective and economical choice
    2nd choice, look at the CFM of the fans that you have and compare with noctua fans - they are the premier fans in terms of quiet and volume of air they pull or push thru the case https://noctua.at/en/products/fan

    but just what you'd pay for two noctua fans will equal what a delid would cost siliconelottery.com will do it for basically what you'd pay for the delidding tool and the liquid metal

    personally, those temps aren't bad, but if you're concerned with higher temps in the summer, again the delid is the way to go. But to give you some comfort, intel has built in thermal limiter in the cpu, most intel CPUs have a max of 100C - mine does. When i first built my first pc, i relied on the motherboard's mfgr's "performance monitoring utility" for temps, and i noticed it never went above 67C. One day i downloaded HWMonitor and it showed the cpu bouncing between 98 to 100C, back and forth. Downloaded Intel's XTU utility and it showed the same.

    For 3 months i'd rendered video files, 2-3/day, 1.5 - 3 hour jobs each, with the cpu running those temps at 100% load. I corrected the issue, but the point is intel's thermal limiter, at 100C would throttle the cpu's load back to let it cool some. That apparently saved my cpu - reason i say that, is every time i run a benchmark in XTU and then let intel compare it to others online running the same mobo and cpu, i'm within the top 5% benchmark score, so i didn't suffer much in the way of degradiation, and that computer is still going strong 3 years later (it's not the one in my sig below).



    Yeah I did see Siliconlottery and their delid service. It would be $60 + shipping both ways. That to me would be my last resort. Figure a delid and liquid metal are more for OC... maybe extremely tiny SFF like the Ncase S4 or Dan A4

    As for the throttle to protect itself, that makes sense. Considering the temps during actual use (1080p games max settings) hover in the 65-70 range and seldom exceeded 80c I think I should be 'ok'. Should be even better after I switch out the CPU cooler to the C7 and throw in a larger side exhaust fan to push out more heat and be quieter than the 80mm. I have a 120mm laying around that I'm going to try. If it helps even a few degrees by changing the fan, I feel like I should be doing a proper cutout for the fan as the little slots on the side seem so small and would block a lot of the surface area of the exhaust fan. Just need to get a grill/cover for the fan.
  18. Well I did some more controlled testing yesterday. Ultimately wanted to see if I needed to change the front panel to a mesh design to let more air flow, changed the fan speed/temp curves and lastly changed the side exhaust from 80mm to 120mm.

    Ran Intel's Stress test and Prime95 FTT and Blend tests.

    Intel Default fan settings and front cover on = 76c
    Intel Default fan settings and front cover off = 76c
    Prime95 FTT Default Fan settings and front cover on = 84c
    Prime95 FTT Default Fan settings and front cover off = 84c
    Prime95 Blend Default Fan settings and front cover on = 82c
    Prime95 Blend Default Fan settings and front cover off = 82c

    It seems that the front solid panel being on or off didn't make any negligible temp difference in temps so the rest of the tests I put it back on.

    Intel Shifted fan settings left and front cover on = 74c
    Prime95 FTT Shifted Fan settings and front cover on = 82c
    Prime95 Blend Shifted Fan settings and front cover on = 81c

    Shifting CPU fans settings curve to the left and the system 3-pin fans I had from 7.2v to 12v seemed to result in a 2c drop.

    Intel Shifted fan settings left v2, front cover on, 120mm exhaust = 72c
    Prime95 FTT Shifted Fan settings v2, front cover on, 120mm exhaust = 80c
    Prime95 Blend Shifted Fan settings v2, front cover on, 120mm exhaust = 80c

    The 25mm thick 120mm didn't fit perfectly, so I'll need to get a slim one but it seems that it helped drop another 2c.

    I did a 1.5 hour Just Cause 3 gaming session with this last configuration.

    Temps for Just Cause 3 were around 58-63c during gameplay after these changes instead of the previous 65-70c. Loading screen I saw a brief spike to 72c. This is improved from the previous max spike of 78c. So it seems the fan curve shift and 120mm exhaust fan has gotten me 5-6c minimum on max temps.

    For Prime it dropped from 84 to 80 and Intel it originally was 81, then 76 and now its 72c.

    I'm happy with the couple degree improvement so far. I think going with the C7 may further assist in temp drops (another few degrees helps) and obviously got to order a slim 120mm.
  19. 58-63C during gameplay is a respectable temperature as is 72C on prime, especially for such a cramped case. What's your gpu sitting at? The hdd (ssd)?
  20. 72c was on Intels XTU, Prime95 got to 80c.

    The GPU Temps during CPU stress tests lingered around 35-45c since I dont think it messes with the GPU.

    During my 1.5hr Just Cause 3 session the GPU averaged 61c with a random spike max of 72c. I'll have to check my other session logs when I get home to see the difference if any in GPU temps after changes.

    I can't decipher which drive temps belong to the M.2 SSD or the WD Black 1tb HDD. It simply says "Drive Temperature". I'm going to venture that the HDD is the one that was at a constant 36c while the M.2 SSD was 66c with a 71c max while gaming. Maybe I'm wrong since the game is installed on the HDD, but I figure that the SSD being under the MoBo would run hot even though it just has the OS and will get heat from the CPU.

    During Intel XTU - Drive 1 = constant 32c - Drive 2 = 62c avg 66 max
    During Prime 95 blend - Drive 1 = constant 27c - Drive 2 = 53c avg 58c max
    During Prime 95 FTT - Drive 1 = 29c-32c range - Drive 2 = 59c avg 63c max

    So question is at this point am I 'good'? Or should I just get the C7 for good measure and the purposes of science! Haha. Amazon GC would make it free and I can could probably sell the engine 27 for similar cost of the new C7 anyways.
  21. That makes sense. The M.2 is pressed up against the board and probably right below the cpu heatsink. If you've got another m.2 slot below the gpu, might be worthwhile moving it there. Edit: itx board, never mind of course there isn't extra slots I'm being silly.
    If you can get c7 for very cheap, I would say why not, see where you can push it. But your current temps for that hdd and for the gpu and cpu are pretty decent.
  22. Sedivy said:
    That makes sense. The M.2 is pressed up against the board and probably right below the cpu heatsink. If you've got another m.2 slot below the gpu, might be worthwhile moving it there. Edit: itx board, never mind of course there isn't extra slots I'm being silly.
    If you can get c7 for very cheap, I would say why not, see where you can push it. But your current temps for that hdd and for the gpu and cpu are pretty decent.


    Well, Ordered the C7, should be here tonight (bless Amazon same day delivery). I'll report back with temp updates.

    Now if only I could find a 1060 6gb for <$300 or a 1070/80 for <$400.
  23. Ah. Well keep an eye on brick and mortar stores. Some of them will try to limit purchases to one per customer and will sell them only in person and not online, in order to make cards available for the average gamer as well. Not many do this but you should keep an eye out. For example I say microcenter doing this not too long ago with some models. But if you do decide to upgrade the gpu, make sure you get the blower card, that's exhausting out the back only and not into the case. Else your temps are going to shoot back up with newer and much hotter cards.
    Or directly from nvidia https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/products/10series/geforce-gtx-1070-ti/ (Select the non ti edition), Except they're frequently out of stock and backordered.
  24. Best answer
    Think I found a local 1060 3gb on Craigslist for $200. Gonna check it out tonight.

    As for temps. I installed the C7 last night and ran tests.

    Intel XTU - avg 57c - max 62c - HDD 30c - SSD avg 46c - GPU 40c

    Prime 95 FFT - avg 75c - max 80c - HDD avg 40c - SSD avg 53c - GPU 40c

    Prime 95 Blend - avg 72c - max 76c - HDD avg 42c - SSD avg 56c - GPU 40c

    So it seems that Intel drop the most at 12c, FFT dropped 4c and Blend dropped 10c.

    Gaming has improved as well. avg 42-48c with a max of 60c. Just Cause 3 max settings 1080p

    The C7 is no louder than the engine 27. Considering the computer will be a few feet away and usually play with headphones probably wont even notice it.

    Very impressed with the cooling of this little guy. Clearly an improvement over the engine 27. That 70w vs 100w TDP difference is huge.
  25. That's great news. Glad it worked out. If it's not too much trouble, post a pic of a final setup?
  26. Updated pics in the PC Part Picker thread. Forgot to mention I was able to fit the 25mm 120mm fan to act as a 3rd intake + the GPU intakes.






  27. Ahh I see you kept both 80 and 120. Very clean setup for the cramped space you were working with. Thanks for indulging us :)
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