GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 Hybrid Trouble

So I started out with a GTX 1080 Ti SC2 Hybrid and within a couple days it started blacking out during gameplay and then sometimes posting to a black screen with white bars with it doing it twice at times. So I RMA'd that one within the first week and a half and received a FTW3 Hybrid in return. Well this one started to do the same thing in some games not too far into having it so I did everything to make sure I could fix it and finally reinstalled Windows completely and it seemed to be working fine after that.

The reason I'm posting here now though that I just started up a game called The Butterfly Sign, a cheap indie game built on Unreal Engine 4 and boom, black screen once it hits a certain point. When running, the XBox One controller vibrates and the screen lost signal in the middle of running and when letting go of the control stick, the controller vibrated for a bit longer then stopped and trying to run while the screen is black created no vibration feedback. The PC itself stays on and there are no beeps. Hitting the power button once brings the system to a regular shutdown. Upon turning it back on I'm greeted with the black screen and white bar and that's when I decided to post here to see if there is any way I can fix the problem instead of doing yet another RMA.I've unplugged all my mechanical hard drives because it sounded like one of them was working way harder than it should even though the game I was playing was playing off my SSD but the problem still persists.

I have no problems doing other things like web browsing and watching movies but that seems like a waste with such expensive hardware, lol. My only guess at this point is that I've either ended up with another faulty card or maybe my PSU is running into issues. It seems to give me no issues with my card I upgraded from though, the R9 280X. It's a Sentey Erp750-pm and I bought it off Amazon near the end of May of 2014. I'm not sure how often most people change out their power supplies but I wouldn't think that 3 years would be too old. I doubt buying a new PSU would hurt anything at all, in fact I've even got my eye on the EVGA SuperNOVA 850W G3. I'm sure 750W should be sufficient but I'd just like the bit of extra headroom for overclocking. Anyway, I'll end this with my system specs. I tried to type the problem up as detailed as I can without writing a novel. Thanks for the help and I'll be more than happy to answer anything else that might be left out!

Corsair h100i GTX
Asrock Fatal1ty Z170 K6
G.Skill Ripjaw V 16GB (2x8GB)
Samsung 850 Evo 256GB
Hitachi GST Desktstar 1TB (E7K1000 HDE721010SLA330)
Seagate Constellation ES.2 3TB (ST33000651NS)
EVGA GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 Hybrid (While Gaming/Benchmarking: 1900Ghz-2000Ghz GPU Clock and 5508 on Memory Clock)
Aerocool Xpredator X3 Devil Edition Mid Tower Case
Sentey 750w Erp750-ps PSU
LG WH16NS40 Internal Bluray Burner
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More about gtx 1080 ftw3 hybrid trouble
  1. Sentey 750w Erp750-ps PSU should be replaced very poor and unstable , might be an issue. Plenty of power , just poor quality.

    G2 , G3..... EVGA
    RMx or RMi .....Corsair
    Seasonic Prime or Focus
  2. SR-71 Blackbird said:
    Sentey 750w Erp750-ps PSU should be replaced very poor and unstable , might be an issue. Plenty of power , just poor quality.

    G2 , G3..... EVGA
    RMx or RMi .....Corsair
    Seasonic Prime or Focus

    It still does so well with the R9 280X though and it uses the same amount of power and everything, that's what I'm confused about lol. Probably will pick up the G3 850W when I get the chance.
  3. Since this post I've updated from driver 388.0 to 388.13 and I've gotten some improvement in some games. The game I mentioned in the original post now seems to easily go past where it did before with no problem. I tried another game, Hellblade: Sesuna's Sacrifice. Where there used to be heavy stutter and some microfreezes, there are now none. I tried Fallout 4 but it's actually a bit worse than it was before. Fallout 4 used to have lots of stuttering and 1-3 second freezes which does make it unplayable but now it lost picture in the middle of trying to make a character at the beginning of the game whereas the stutter/freeze problem never really happened till around the time you enter the vault. It was still on the 3TB drive so I'm gonna try it off the SSD to see if it works that way. There's another game I had tried in the past that work go to a black screen within 30 seconds of the intro, Yooka-Laylee. So I'll try that game sometime too and see if there's a difference it in as well.
  4. Alright, I just tried out Fallout 4 on the SSD and it went to a black screen. I had to do a hard reset and it did the black screen THREE TIMES before it would finally boot into Windows 10! Shows the Asrock logo, pinwheel load for about 1 second and then the black and white screen, all three times a single press of the power button seems to shut down as if it already booted up into Windows. The Xbox One controller even stops searching for a Bluetooth connection and successfully connects. I would upload a photo of the black screen with white bars but I'm not sure how on mobile.
  5. Death_of_Chaos Your experience highlights precisely why I always buy top quality power supplies. The thought of troubleshooting a GPU issue, without knowing if the PSU is the cause is simply daunting. It's possible that I may be wrong but if I were in your position, I would not troubleshoot further until after I purchased a new quality power supply. Just my opinion.
  6. @rcald2000 I definitely think you're right. I should really invest in one of those PSU testers, I see them bundled with power supplies a lot. I'm most interested in the 850W SUPERNOVA G3. It looks like a real quality power supply and the warranty will be neatly included on the same account as my graphics card. I don't think I ever will but if I wanted to give myself enough wiggle room for an SLI setup in the future, would an 850W be sufficient or do you think a bigger capacity would be required? I eventually may upgrade the 6600K to a 7700K.
  7. Also, here's a picture I took of the screen I'm talking about. I can't seem to find how to find how to upload a photo so I'll just share the direct link that I uploaded to a forum I posted at Linus Tech Tips.
  8. So I'm stuck as to which PSU I should get. I'm leaning towards the G2, G3 and now I found that the P2 is surprisingly cheaper than the G3 and priced around the same as the G2 on Amazon. Would the P2 be worth getting over the G2/G3 models? What are the advantages of the tech that comes with the G3 over the P2? I've tried getting this answer via Google searches but I never seem to find that answer though I did find out people have problems with the G3 loudly revving its fan periodically and just being loud in general.
  9. Death_of_Chaos Get the P2. It has platinum efficiency and a ten year warranty. P2 > G2 > G3. Personally I prefer the G2 over the G3 because they made the G3 with approximately 0.5" less depth, and compensated that dimension change by making the fan curve more aggressive. It was a step backwards, in my opinion. Regardless, the P2 is definitely a better purchase than the G3, since it has three years additional warranty, quieter fan curve, and platinum efficiency. Don't hesitate; just buy it.
  10. Purchased the 850W P2 off Amazon and it will be at my house by Tuesday!! I won't be able to install it till Saturday at the earliest with it being a holiday weekend and all but I'm pretty excited to see if this makes a difference! Will definitely keep you guys posted on any progress made (or lack thereof).
  11. Best answer
    Reporting back after a couple days with my new power supply and looks like all my problems have been solved? Everything hits the same overclocks as they did before (which I was kinda hoping I'd get lucky and get more OC but I'm still happy with that I ended up with) but all old problems listed before seem to have been eradicated.
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