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I7 8700k build, need sugestion

Hi im building new pc, im going with
I7 8700k
Z370 (asus)
2x8gb cl16 3600MHz
Coolmaster maker 5t
Evga 700w g2
Silent wings 120mm x4
Odd Asus
Blue cable menagment
Blue Led stripes
M2 Samsung evo 250gb
Ssd HyperX savage 250gb
2x 2tb wd green
1x4tb wd blue
1x1tb wd black
Gtx 1070 g1 gaming Sli


I have problem with cpu cooler..
Dark Rock pro 3 or kraken x62?
Im going to OC cpu to 4.8-5.0 GHz
Reply to Power94
18 answers Last reply Best Answer
More about 8700k build sugestion
  1. There isn't a lot of data on overclocking the 8th gen Core CPUs yet. Adding two more cores to the mix and the 14++nm fabrication process are two variables we haven't accounted for yet. We'll probably get all kinds of data in an hour or two when Tomshardware publishes their Coffee Lake review

    I don't know much about the coolers you're asking about. Sorry =(
    Reply to AgentLozen
  2. ^ Agreed. Wait for reviews on the 8700K before purchase. Why SLI on the GTX1070 rather than an single GTX1080?
    Reply to Jester Maroc
  3. 1) You need a pretty beefy cooler, though as said we have nothing official yet.

    So you should WAIT like the rest of us until we have results from different coolers. I doubt the Dark Rock Pro 3 will handle a 5GHz OC on the i7-8700K though.

    I'm curious to see how THIS air cooler does though (I do not like liquid coolers due to sometimes pump noise and failures.. they have a limited life of maybe five years too due to liquid permeation of the tubes):
    https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/CRYORIG/R1_Ultimate/

    2) SLI GTX1070?
    I do not recommend you do that. Many games don't even support SLI. Your money would be best spent on a single GTX1080Ti.

    https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/EVGA/GTX_1080_Ti_SC2/31.html

    The GTX1080Ti is about 60% faster than a single GTX1070 so in games that don't support SLI you are losing a lot of performance. In fact, the number of games that support 1.6x or better scaling AND run just as smooth as a single GPU are probably pretty rare.
    Reply to photonboy
  4. I would go for the Kraken x62, but its mostly because its Liquid vs Air cooling. The x62 is certainly a very good cooling solution, better than the Dark Rock Pro 3, but the question is, is it worth the extra $$?
    If money isnt an object, you can even go higher than the x62....although I dont see why.

    Is there a specific reason why you're going with 4 HDD's (3 of which are different) and 2 different SSD's?
    What is the point of this?
    Reply to morpheas768
  5. More info on SLI:
    More specifically the issue is with AFR (Alternate Frame Rendering) which is starting to be dropped in more modern games. The reason is that game engines are starting to introduce features that only work with a single GPU setup.

    Some features are being added that look at several consecutive frames and scan for similarities. It's similar to VIDEO COMPRESSION where patterns are looked for in one frame after the other (like the same part of the sky being blue). I know that this is used for one of the new anti-aliasing methods but there are other techniques being added too.

    In the past NVidia or AMD would add support for AFR at the driver level so that GPU#1 would draw a frame, then GPU#2 would draw the next but again that's starting to be dropped.

    In the long run we will eventually get back to multi-GPU using something like SFR (Split Frame Rendering), however it appears that may be a few years away as it needs to be added into the game engine for the game developers to use and even then most games won't support it if the effort is more than minor.
    Reply to photonboy
  6. morpheas768 said:

    I would go for the Kraken x62, but its mostly because its Liquid vs Air cooling. The x62 is certainly a very good cooling solution, better than the Dark Rock Pro 3, but the question is, is it worth the extra $$?
    If money isnt an object, you can even go higher than the x62....although I dont see why.

    Is there a specific reason why you're going with 4 HDD's (3 of which are different) and 2 different SSD's?
    What is the point of this?


    If I was building a high-end gaming rig I'd go with:

    1x250GB M.2 SSD, and
    1x500GB SATA SSD, and
    1x4TB HDD

    And if there was a need for RAID1 (for redundancy) I'd go with a 6TB WD MY CLOUD (with two drives, so 3TB usable in RAID1):
    https://www.amazon.com/Mirror-Personal-Network-Attached-Storage/dp/B014LE5D0M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1507207028&sr=8-2&keywords=wd+cloud+6tb

    BTW, Amazon review scores are mostly wrong. They are based on SIMILAR items not the exact model.

    *You do NOT want a lot of hard drives in a computer because I guarantee they will spin up and spin down a lot. ANNOYING!

    So stick with one, large HDD for local backup, storage, games and use the WD MY CLOUD (as RAID1) if needed for redundancy. It's also handy for SHARING across the network (I use mine for my cough cough legal movie collection).

    It's probable that SOME of these hard drives are from the current computer but I'd still avoid having too many drives on a single PC if possible to avoid the annoying noise of startup/shutdown (and avoiding that by having them run all the time still makes a noisy PC).
    Reply to photonboy
  7. photonboy said:

    If I was building a high-end gaming rig I'd go with:

    1x250GB M.2 SSD, and
    1x500GB SATA SSD, and
    1x4TB HDD

    And if there was a need for RAID1 (for redundancy) I'd go with a 6TB WD MY CLOUD (with two drives, so 3TB usable in RAID1):
    https://www.amazon.com/Mirror-Personal-Network-Attached-Storage/dp/B014LE5D0M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1507207028&sr=8-2&keywords=wd+cloud+6tb

    BTW, Amazon review scores are mostly wrong. They are based on SIMILAR items not the exact model.

    *You do NOT want a lot of hard drives in a computer because I guarantee they will spin up and spin down a lot. ANNOYING!

    So stick with one, large HDD for local backup, storage, games and use the WD MY CLOUD (as RAID1) if needed for redundancy. It's also handy for SHARING across the network (I use mine for my cough cough legal movie collection).

    It's probable that SOME of these hard drives are from the current computer but I'd still avoid having too many drives on a single PC if possible to avoid the annoying noise of startup/shutdown (and avoiding that by having them run all the time still makes a noisy PC).


    I still dont know why you need an M2 and a SATA SSD. Isnt 1 of those 2 enough?

    I never mentioned Amazon reviews, you must be confusing me with someone else. The OP didnt either.

    I agree with having 1 HDD over several, it is the sensible choice.
    However, there's always the issue of losing data, and if this 1 drive fails, all your data may be gone. Good thing to suggest backing it up to a cloud.

    The spin up/down isnt an issue, as its only when powering on the PC.
    And yes more drives would equal more noise just from being powered on and spinning.

    However, it isnt always the case, not quite. I have 2 Toshiba 3TB drives, and when I bought and added the second one, I noticed little to no difference in noise from before.
    Maybe it is that they are identical drives and their noise sort of "matches" but addition of a second drive didnt result in an addition of that much noise.
    Reply to morpheas768
  8. @Jester Maroc

    SLI reason is that i have one gtx 1070 g1 gaming and i cant sell that GPU for money i invest when i buy it direct when 1070 released those GPUs, so im going to buy one more for 350€-400€ bcs i dont have a lot of money after building this beast haha..im playing on 4k even now i cant get 40-60fps with one gpu on the most of games,two gpu in sli is the sweet spot, btw 1080ti here in croatia good manufacture 1080ti is around 1200€ ....


    @morpheas768

    i have now in my build ssd savage 250gb 2x2tbwd green 1x1tbwd black and i plan to put that all in my new build bcs i have those hdds and ssd already and yes i plan to buy one more 4tb wd blue and m2 samsung evo 250gb ssd bcs m2 is the beast haha.. im using hdd-s for movies,tv shows,games,buisniss etc etc i have a lot stuff to storage..


    @photonboy

    OMG yes and yes its too annoying hear hdds when they spin but i need them :/ i wish i cant silent hdds somehow..but i must see how they gonna act on maker 5T case first..mybe maker 5T have better hdd cages with no vibrations LOL


    PUBLIC:
    back to coolers..i see some reviewers on YT but all those guys use h115i but i personally think that x62 is better idk...
    i think that DRP3 on air ist gonna be good for OC...money isn't problem for cooler.. but in maker 5T i can only put on top(i only wanna AIO on top) 240mm/280mm i cant put 300mm+ coolers unfortunately... i think i must go with some AIO for tame this beast
    Reply to Power94
  9. And i must say if i take AIO cooler i will change fans for silent wings maybe even i put 2 push and 2 pull silent wings 120mm if there a room for 4..
    Reply to Power94
  10. morpheas768 said:
    photonboy said:

    If I was building a high-end gaming rig I'd go with:

    1x250GB M.2 SSD, and
    1x500GB SATA SSD, and
    1x4TB HDD

    And if there was a need for RAID1 (for redundancy) I'd go with a 6TB WD MY CLOUD (with two drives, so 3TB usable in RAID1):
    https://www.amazon.com/Mirror-Personal-Network-Attached-Storage/dp/B014LE5D0M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1507207028&sr=8-2&keywords=wd+cloud+6tb

    BTW, Amazon review scores are mostly wrong. They are based on SIMILAR items not the exact model.

    *You do NOT want a lot of hard drives in a computer because I guarantee they will spin up and spin down a lot. ANNOYING!

    So stick with one, large HDD for local backup, storage, games and use the WD MY CLOUD (as RAID1) if needed for redundancy. It's also handy for SHARING across the network (I use mine for my cough cough legal movie collection).

    It's probable that SOME of these hard drives are from the current computer but I'd still avoid having too many drives on a single PC if possible to avoid the annoying noise of startup/shutdown (and avoiding that by having them run all the time still makes a noisy PC).


    I still dont know why you need an M2 and a SATA SSD. Isnt 1 of those 2 enough?

    I never mentioned Amazon reviews, you must be confusing me with someone else. The OP didnt either.

    I agree with having 1 HDD over several, it is the sensible choice.
    However, there's always the issue of losing data, and if this 1 drive fails, all your data may be gone. Good thing to suggest backing it up to a cloud.

    The spin up/down isnt an issue, as its only when powering on the PC.
    And yes more drives would equal more noise just from being powered on and spinning.

    However, it isnt always the case, not quite. I have 2 Toshiba 3TB drives, and when I bought and added the second one, I noticed little to no difference in noise from before.
    Maybe it is that they are identical drives and their noise sort of "matches" but addition of a second drive didnt result in an addition of that much noise.


    1) M.2 SSD was for Windows + apps, and the SATA SSD was for games that most benefit from an SSD vs HDD (it's not just loading times, some such as the new PREY and Fallout 4 with HD texture pack will have severe STUTTERING due to texture loading).

    2) AMAZON - I never said anybody mentioned Amazon, but I mentioned the issue since I linked something from Amazon.

    3) Spin up/down is an issue if you want to have your HDD's shut off to save power and avoid wearing out the drives. I don't leave my HDD's spinning all the time.

    Obviously every HDD added results in more noise, but no it's not going to scale linearly as there are other noises in the system and as suggested the RESONANCE of the case makes a big difference.

    *I was just suggesting an IDEAL setup based on my years of experience. Minimal noise, redundancy, optimal speed where needed (M.2 + SATA SSD's) etc.
    Reply to photonboy
  11. photonboy said:
    morpheas768 said:
    photonboy said:

    If I was building a high-end gaming rig I'd go with:

    1x250GB M.2 SSD, and
    1x500GB SATA SSD, and
    1x4TB HDD

    And if there was a need for RAID1 (for redundancy) I'd go with a 6TB WD MY CLOUD (with two drives, so 3TB usable in RAID1):
    https://www.amazon.com/Mirror-Personal-Network-Attached-Storage/dp/B014LE5D0M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1507207028&sr=8-2&keywords=wd+cloud+6tb

    BTW, Amazon review scores are mostly wrong. They are based on SIMILAR items not the exact model.

    *You do NOT want a lot of hard drives in a computer because I guarantee they will spin up and spin down a lot. ANNOYING!

    So stick with one, large HDD for local backup, storage, games and use the WD MY CLOUD (as RAID1) if needed for redundancy. It's also handy for SHARING across the network (I use mine for my cough cough legal movie collection).

    It's probable that SOME of these hard drives are from the current computer but I'd still avoid having too many drives on a single PC if possible to avoid the annoying noise of startup/shutdown (and avoiding that by having them run all the time still makes a noisy PC).


    I still dont know why you need an M2 and a SATA SSD. Isnt 1 of those 2 enough?

    I never mentioned Amazon reviews, you must be confusing me with someone else. The OP didnt either.

    I agree with having 1 HDD over several, it is the sensible choice.
    However, there's always the issue of losing data, and if this 1 drive fails, all your data may be gone. Good thing to suggest backing it up to a cloud.

    The spin up/down isnt an issue, as its only when powering on the PC.
    And yes more drives would equal more noise just from being powered on and spinning.

    However, it isnt always the case, not quite. I have 2 Toshiba 3TB drives, and when I bought and added the second one, I noticed little to no difference in noise from before.
    Maybe it is that they are identical drives and their noise sort of "matches" but addition of a second drive didnt result in an addition of that much noise.


    1) M.2 SSD was for Windows + apps, and the SATA SSD was for games that most benefit from an SSD vs HDD (it's not just loading times, some such as the new PREY and Fallout 4 with HD texture pack will have severe STUTTERING due to texture loading).

    2) AMAZON - I never said anybody mentioned Amazon, but I mentioned the issue since I linked something from Amazon.

    3) Spin up/down is an issue if you want to have your HDD's shut off to save power and avoid wearing out the drives. I don't leave my HDD's spinning all the time.

    Obviously every HDD added results in more noise, but no it's not going to scale linearly as there are other noises in the system and as suggested the RESONANCE of the case makes a big difference.

    *I was just suggesting an IDEAL setup based on my years of experience. Minimal noise, redundancy, optimal speed where needed (M.2 + SATA SSD's) etc.


    if i have that much of money i buy terabytes and terabytes of ssd disks instead of HDDs xD
    like i say i need all that HDDs.. do you have any suggestions about AIO vs AIR coolers? best one to tamed the beast? whit what coolers do you have experience?
    Reply to Power94
  12. Best answer
    CPU COOLER:
    You should look at i7-8700K overclocking articles/reviews and see what coolers they've used, but if you want a half decent overclock a 240mm/280mm or even 360mm AIO is the way to go.

    I don't think there are many air coolers that can handle a 5GHz i7-8700K overclock. Are there any? (and it also depends on how HOT your room temperature is as well.)

    Something like the KRANEN X62
    Reply to photonboy
  13. http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/intel-coffee-lake-i7-8700k-cpu,5252-12.html

    The AIO they used (which I've not heard of, but it's listed on Page 3) here was insufficient for just gaming as it was pushing up to roughly 90degC, and well threaded applications were over (for a 4.9GHz overclock).

    Ideally you want 75degC for sustained usage (max) though that's ideal and you can go higher. I wouldn't go above 85degC on a regular basis though as it's hard to say how that will wear on the CPU.
    Reply to photonboy
  14. Is my build okay
    CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor
    CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - MasterAir MA610P 53.4 CFM CPU Cooler
    Motherboard: Asus - ROG MAXIMUS X HERO (WI-FI AC) ATX LGA1151
    Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
    Storage: Samsung - 950 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
    Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti O11GB STRIX GAMING Video Card
    Case: Cooler Master - MasterCase Pro 6 ATX Mid Tower Case
    Power Supply: Cooler Master - 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX
    Reply to vetonvla
  15. vetonvla said:
    Is my build okay
    CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor
    CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - MasterAir MA610P 53.4 CFM CPU Cooler
    Motherboard: Asus - ROG MAXIMUS X HERO (WI-FI AC) ATX LGA1151
    Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
    Storage: Samsung - 950 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
    Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti O11GB STRIX GAMING Video Card
    Case: Cooler Master - MasterCase Pro 6 ATX Mid Tower Case
    Power Supply: Cooler Master - 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX


    on your spot i would put EVGA 750w G2 PSU or something like that TIER 1 PSU
    Cooler that you pick is not good, you need 280mm or 360mm AIO water cooler... i have with my kraken x62 (ML 140 PRO 2x and kraken 2x fans which is totally 4 fans on radiator) on 4.7GHZ 85c+ in stress test so you need much better cooler...other stuff is good...look my PC https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHAv5EUXb4s&t=5s
    Reply to Power94
  16. Power94 said:
    vetonvla said:
    Is my build okay
    CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor
    CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - MasterAir MA610P 53.4 CFM CPU Cooler
    Motherboard: Asus - ROG MAXIMUS X HERO (WI-FI AC) ATX LGA1151
    Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
    Storage: Samsung - 950 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
    Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti O11GB STRIX GAMING Video Card
    Case: Cooler Master - MasterCase Pro 6 ATX Mid Tower Case
    Power Supply: Cooler Master - 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX


    on your spot i would put EVGA 750w G2 PSU or something like that TIER 1 PSU
    Cooler that you pick is not good, you need 280mm or 360mm AIO water cooler... i have with my kraken x62 (ML 140 PRO 2x and kraken 2x fans which is totally 4 fans on radiator) on 4.7GHZ 85c+ in stress test so you need much better cooler...other stuff is good...look my PC https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHAv5EUXb4s&t=5s


    agree on cooler, sort of on the PSU
    1. that air cooler is totally inadequate as said. might be okay for STOCK/DEFAULT frequencies but why limit? Best to go with a good 240 or 280mm (or even 360mm) liquid cooler... not my area but something where you have FULL CONTROL over the fans is preferable IMO

    And make sure the PUMP isn't problematic for noise. Basically:
    a) pump noise
    b) fan control/noise (some run high RPM at all times... why?)
    c) general build quality (see customer feedback)

    2. PSU - a 650W PSU is plenty for the build HOWEVER some are too noisy. The EVGA 750W G2 has an "ECO MODE" to shut off below 375W which should be sufficient (I'll estimate below)... that's good because the fan is TOO NOISY otherwise for that PSU.

    I don't trust reviews on how "quiet" a PSU fan is either as several said the above EVGA was fairly quiet without ECO MODE. Bullshit. And I've used more than one... there are some known good ones though including "Be Quiet!" PSU's.

    POWER REQUIREMENT ESTIMATE:
    http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/intel-coffee-lake-i7-8700k-cpu,review-34037-12.html
    and
    http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/asus-rog-strix-geforce-gtx-1080-ti-oc,review-34051-4.html

    Worst-case should be GAMING->

    GTX1080Ti (typical gaming) 250W
    System power draw (sans GPU) approx 100W

    So likely about 375W to 400W draw during gaming. So 650W should be plenty. Though the EVGA G2 750W again should offer fan shutoff below 375W so it doesn't seem a good choice as the fan is likely to be on. There are QUIETER PSU's.

    WORST-CASE is probably about 450W or so and very rare. That's not an issue, really it's just about noise (and PSU quality, and price of course).

    Choices (IMO) include:
    a) 650W+ PSU with quiet fan
    b) 850W PSU with "ECO MODE" that shuts fan off below 425W

    (both would be fine if you can get it. Not sure why EVGA has some PSU's with overkill RPM on fans)
    Reply to photonboy
  17. I'm putting a PCPARTPICKER "build" together based on your parts, though here's some choices to consider:

    1) Air cooler (then see how high an overclock you can manage... I personally would sacrifice to get "only" 4.7GHz all cores or so rather than higher pump noise, potential issues and the fact that you will eventually need to replace the cooler within about five years... also due to TUBE PERMEATION the noise can go up over time as the cooling capability is reduced slightly).

    https://pcpartpicker.com/product/xFw323/cryorig-cpu-cooler-crr1a

    2) Liquid Cooler: Kraken X62 rev2
    https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2RdFf7/nzxt-kraken-x62-rev-2-982-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-rl-krx62-02

    Expensive, but great reviews. It uses SATA for power, and the fans can connect to the MOTHERBOARD so you can install the motherboard software to control the fans.

    (as an aside, my FAN CONTROL on my motherboard just stopped working; well BIOS works not addon software from Asus. Apparently some issue with patching due to the new Spectre/Meltdown issue... just thought you should be aware in case you run into problems)

    *So install the motherboard fan software, then tweak a good profile. Maybe the lowest RPM for the fans until the CPU hits 50degC then start ramping up to keep CPU under 80degC in WORST-CASE real-world situation (Prime95 is not real-world... HANDBRAKE 100% CPU usage is closest likely).

    **Liquid coolers heat up the liquid so you should test for a bare minimum of 10 minutes. Conversely air coolers quickly reach thermal equilibrium (and cooling down takes longer for liquid too).

    3) PSU?
    a) Be Quiet 650W
    https://pcpartpicker.com/product/kVwqqs/be-quiet-power-supply-bn251
    or
    b) EVGA 850W G2 Supernova (**850W again for ECO MODE below 425W as discussed above)
    https://pcpartpicker.com/product/LCfp99/evga-power-supply-220g20850xr
    Reply to photonboy
  18. BUILD: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gWTsbj

    *explanation:

    1) I'm not a fan of windows on a case, but if I had one I might prefer it to be SMALLER than most and at least block the drive bays which I think look ugly. Here's a list of my favorites in order of most to least what I'd prefer (haven't researched beyond that, just looks):

    a) https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fkTrxr/fractal-design-case-fdcadefr5bkow
    b) https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bNQRsY/phanteks-case-phes515ebk (how much does TOP PIECE affect liquid cooling exhaust/noise?)
    c) https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tBWrxr/phanteks-eclipse-p400s-tempered-glass-atx-mid-tower-case-ph-ec416pstg_bk

    2) I chose the Be Quiet 650W PSU (very quiet, and fan spinning helps exhaust some heat).

    3) SSD-> the "PRO" is not worth the price IMO. It's nearly impossible to benefit over something like the one I chose. I think the one I chose is 3200MBps writes (sequential)... even the one I chose is hard to benefit from vs a normal Samsung 500MBps drive without really demanding write/read scenarios.

    https://www.samsung.com/us/computing/memory-storage/solid-state-drives/ssd-960-evo-m-2-500gb-mz-v6e500bw/

    4) the Strix 1080Ti had no price listed (out of stock) so the price of the build is not accurate.

    (BTW, do not use a kit to put the card sideways. the heat would bounce back too much and raise the GPU temp)

    5) I added a 2TB HDD. Maybe you have one, but otherwise even if you are uncertain you need the space you absolutely should use a tool like Acronis True Image to setup automated backups... in that case I recommend DIFFERENTIAL, weekly, 2nd highest compression, and auto-delete after a chain of 1+7 (would make sense later... it's a bit confusing at first).

    A backup Image might be roughly 150GB+ if you're filling up the space on the 500GB. Differentials might average 30GB but it varies so much it's hard to say. So you might use up 300GB or more of the 1860GB usable of a 2TB HDD.... if you plan to have lots of games as well, a 2TB may not be sufficient though of course you can buy a bigger drive later (which adds more noise).
    Reply to photonboy
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