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AMD Ryzen 7 1700 OC

Hi,

so this may have been asked several times, but every CPU is unique so every situation too, at least I think. I only have a quick question. Since I've finally got the courage to OC my CPU via BIOS and not AI Suite I wanted to go past 3.8 GHz. I've chosen the way to start from the top and work to the bottom. So I went to 4GHz @ 1.4v - did not post at all, so I started to go down by 250 MHz, nothing worked until 3.9GHz @ 1.4v, 3x in a row cinebench worked fine, then tried Asus RealBench and it crashed. Does this mean that even if the voltage is 1.4 and it crashed @ 3.9GHz that I can't have or go beyond 3.4 since 1.4v is too much from what I've read? The setting I've tried are:

AI overclock tuner: D.O.C.O. Standard
D.O.C.P. : D.O.C.P. DDR4-3000 15-17-17-35
BCLK Frequency: 100.0000
BCLK_Divider: Auto
Custom CPU Core Ratio: Auto
CPU Core Ratio: 39.00
Performance Bias: Auto
Memory Frequency: DDR4-3066MHz
Core Performance Boost: Auto
SMT Mode: Auto
EPU Power Saving Mode: Disabled
TPU: Keep Current Settings
CPU Core Voltage: Manual mode (1.438V)
CPU Core Voltage Override: 1.40000
CPU SOC Voltage: Manual mode (1.220V)
VDDSOC Voltage Override: 1.20000
DRAM Voltage: 1.35000 (1.395V)
1.8V PLL Voltage: Auto (1.853V)
1.05V SB Voltage: Auto (1.051V)

The temperature shown was: 46°C
Memory frequency: 2133MHz <- why is it that low when I bought a 3000MHz?

Thanks
Reply to Martines91
23 answers Last reply Best Answer
More about amd ryzen 1700
  1. this might help some. I've a 1600x, but I also have the b350 mobo in the vid. So it was relevant for me. You may have a different mobo, so maybe google that combo, someone will have done a guide no doubt.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HOjJmXhf1DY

    Your OC depends on a few things. Voltage is obviously very important as are your cpu temps, the right cooler etc. 1.4 seems high for me for that OC. My 3.9 runs on 1.325 or something. Ill have to double check to make sure. The crash after Realbench just means it's still not stable. 3.9 may be too much (as you pointed out already in the silicon lottery). However, still not impossible. Start lower and work up, rather than higher and working down. Key to OC'ing and getting a good OC, is to take it slow and test for stability all the way.

    The all core max clock on the 1700 is 3.2 (i think), start there. Firstly, if your OC'ing the memory, then take that off, and focus on the CPU first. you can always oc the mem again, once the cpu is stable at your desired/achievable speed. Then maybe start off conservative at a 3.5 point with a lowish voltage, preferably in or around your VID, which is the recommended voltage for your chip and which you can get by using coretemp. Then just slowly ramp it up whilst testing with Prime95 or something similar untill you get as high as you can get.

    If you list the rest of your pc specs, we can give you more a informed solution.
    Reply to keith12
  2. mem is low speed because you will need to set the timings manually in the bios, then it will go full speed. You should be able to set an XMP profile which will do the same. Also done in the bios.

    edit: If you haven't already, I'd suggest running your system at stock settings, and stress testing. Make sure it runs flawlessly.
    After that, you have a baseline to work from. Make sure to record temps as you do this. HardwareMonitor is a good one for that. I'm not sure what your 47 degrees is measuring at. And by that I mean, idle temps (which would be high), gaming temps (which would be normal) or at full load stress testing, which would be superb :) )

    You want to measure temps in each of those 3 condistions. Idle, gaming load and full load stress testing.
    Reply to keith12
  3. my pc is here:
    https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bDfs4C

    previously I used the asus ai suite iii to oc my cpu, that went uo to 3.8, started at 3.2 I think.

    Now after a while of testing I got 3867.2 MHz at 1.395/1.417V, (previously it was 3.8 at around 1.375 or something like that) and cinebench score went from 1617 to 1637 max. (had 1655 @ 1.4V)

    so 3.875GHz @ 1.395V crashed on realbench, going down then, by the looks of it, I will have to satisfy with the 3.8 :/

    Edit: so I've managed to get stable on 3825MHz @ 1,36V. so meh...

    but... I can't seem to set up my RAM,

    this is what I'm stuck with



    whenever I try to set my RAM in BIOS by the D.O.C.P. to match the DDR4-3000MHz 15-17-17-35

    by the looks on their page, it's not supported by AMD??? could that be why my PC wouldn't post if I set it to correct speed? If so, f*ck me in the ass, I bought piece of crap :O
    Reply to Martines91
  4. Hi there. Very similar build I'm testing for my main PC, same CPU and motherboard anyways. You're correct about RealBench. It's a much more brutal real world test than Cinebench. Silicon lottery comes into play here. I had to lower to 3.85Ghz at 1.37v(DMM reads 1.38 under stress)for this speed. I could pass Cinebench fine at 3.9ghz with same voltage, but not RealBench. I could maybe get 3.9 stable, but I don't feel the extra voltage for 50Mhz is worth it. I can boot windows at 4ghz 1.4v, but Cinebench blackscreen crashes Q-Code 8 nearly instantly, same with 3.95Ghz.

    Regarding memory, Ryzen in general and this particular board is very picky for higher clocked memory kits. Does yours happen to be on the QVL on ASUS' website? Do you have the latest 1501 UEFI installed? Mine is listed on the QVL, and has the Samsung B dies that folks mention regarding Ryzen. For me, I loaded the D.O.C.P. Standard profile and then booted at 3200 RAM speed. Have you tried manually inputting the timings and frequency and not using D.O.C.P.? This helps for some folks. Also, have you tried using dividers for other speeds such as 2400, 2666, 2800, ect. to see if any of those POST?
    Reply to 1LiquidPC
  5. I just checked the qvl file and it's not supported :/ well that means I'm f*cked? great... fml
    Reply to Martines91
  6. can you turn of DOCP and enter the timings manually? there should be an option for that. Ryzen is finicky with ram thats for sure. Providing the modules are on the QVL for your mobo, it should work.


    edit: missed your last post :) Ah, thats a bummer. YOu may still be able to get the dimms to work, but it may be a lot of hassle and tricking around.

    Can you RMA them and get a new set?
    Reply to keith12
  7. I don't know... by law in my country I only have 14 days to return it without reason, now it will be difficult maybe not possible :/
    Reply to Martines91
  8. i hope you can so, otherwise you may have to purchase new ram that's on the QVL.

    As 1LiquidPC has suggested, make sure that your bios is updated, as this will bring more stability, and perhaps allow the dimms to work.
    Reply to keith12
  9. The QVL list sn't required, just recommended as they are the kits checked by motherboard manufacturer themselves. If your UEFI is updated, there is a much better chance of getting to 3000 speed. Still, you can manually input the the timing and voltage settings. Also, remember that higher speeds are actually OCing the memory controller, and SOC voltage is picky as well. You shouldn't need 1.2v. To little or to much can cause issues with memory training. Intel's SA voltage works the same way. I'm using 1.13v SOC for 3200Mhz. Even 1.0 may work. 1.4v is considered safe for DDR4. Some folks need this increased from 1.2 or 1.35v as well to POST. Also, have you adjusted VDimm POST voltage as well as regular DIMM voltage?
    Reply to 1LiquidPC
  10. keith12 said:
    i hope you can so, otherwise you may have to purchase new ram that's on the QVL.

    As 1LiquidPC has suggested, make sure that your bios is updated, as this will bring more stability, and perhaps allow the dimms to work.


    I will have to try and negotiate with the seller since it's been 4-5 weeks after a purchase and I've been using them, maybe try to convince him to buy it back for a lower price and sell me another pack (verified) and I would pay the difference.

    @1LiquidPC I have the latest BIOS update. I tried following Linus' Ryzen RAM overclocking guide and set the VDimm Post voltage to 1/2 of the regular voltage which is set to I think @ 1.35V not sure, I don't have another PC with recording card to make a screen of my BIOS settings, I can however take a picture with my phone
    Reply to Martines91
  11. Hold on there a second. VDimm Post should be equal or higher than VDIMM on main tweaking page. I have my standard DRAM voltage at 1.36, but my DRAM POST voltage is 1.4v. It's VTTDDR voltage that should be half or slightly above half of DRAM voltage.
    Reply to 1LiquidPC
  12. 1LiquidPC said:
    Hold on there a second. VDimm Post should be equal or higher than VDIMM on main tweaking page. I have my standard DRAM voltage at 1.36, but my DRAM POST voltage is 1.4v. It's VTTDDR voltage that should be half or slightly above half of DRAM voltage.


    I'm sorry, I think it is the VTTDDR I'll have to check, tell me what to take a picture of to show my current settings in BIOS
    Reply to Martines91
  13. Parts of the main Extreme Tweaker page would be helpful so we can see voltages, multiplier ratios, ect. Also, the DRAM section for memory timings, and DIGI section that shows CPU current, LLC, ect. This is also where the DRAM POST voltage(not 100% what it's called in there) is located.
    Reply to 1LiquidPC
  14. So here goes:

    System:


    Extreme Tweaker:


    DRAM:


    External Digi+ Power Control:


    Tweaker's paradise:
    Reply to Martines91
  15. Thats a lot of pics :) Anyways, try setting DRAM Vboot voltage to 1.4v. This is the setting mentioned earlier. Also, I see the memory frequency divider is on 3200. I'd lower that a notch as its trying to boot to 3200 RAM at that setting. Maybe raise DRAM current capability, even CPU both over 100% as that will prevent power draw from limiting OC potential. I have mine set to 140% and 130%.
    Reply to 1LiquidPC
  16. 1LiquidPC said:
    Thats a lot of pics :) Anyways, try setting DRAM Vboot voltage to 1.4v. This is the setting mentioned earlier. Also, I see the memory frequency divider is on 3200. I'd lower that a notch as its trying to boot to 3200 RAM at that setting. Maybe raise DRAM current capability, even CPU both over 100% as that will prevent power draw from limiting OC potential. I have mine set to 140% and 130%.


    ok changed everything accordingly, set the divider to 3066MHz and set the CAS latency how they should be 15-15-15-36 but the total frequency didn't change, it's still 2130MHz :(
    Reply to Martines91
  17. OK. Still not passing POST at all? What if you try lower, such as 2933, 2800, 2666 to test.
    Reply to 1LiquidPC
  18. I can try that but something else has happened now... none of my USB ports are working, I mean, keyboard and mouse do but whenever I connect an USB or external HDD they are not recognized and by that I mean windows doesn't even show them, like I connect it and nothing happens, the drive spins up but nothing else (the drive works on another computer)

    edit: well the good news is the DRAM Frequency is: 1463,7 MHz (which I think is doubled so 2927,4) but the USB is still not working
    edit2: tried to get DRAM to 3066MHz that didn't work, so the best is that 2933 or how was it... as for the USB, front USBs are not working at all, the motherboard USB only the top row of USB 3.0, the bottom row doesn't work at all
    Reply to Martines91
  19. Are all the USB controllers enabled in the UEFI? May want to try a full UEFI reset. Have you tried reinstalling the chipset drivers? It could also be OC related, as unstable OC can corrupt parts of the operating system. It sounds like 2933 may be your number. If you can't get higher on frequency, you may be able to tighten the timings a bit with a bit of voltage. Either way, the difference in performance between 2933 and 3066 is minimal real world. Also, to check, with RAM at 2933, what BCLK speed are you running at? Is it basically 100, or a different number.? I'm asking as more than a few Mhz either direction can cause issues with system components.
    Reply to 1LiquidPC
  20. 1LiquidPC said:
    Are all the USB controllers enabled in the UEFI? May want to try a full UEFI reset. Have you tried reinstalling the chipset drivers? It could also be OC related, as unstable OC can corrupt parts of the operating system. It sounds like 2933 may be your number. If you can't get higher on frequency, you may be able to tighten the timings a bit with a bit of voltage. Either way, the difference in performance between 2933 and 3066 is minimal real world. Also, to check, with RAM at 2933, what BCLK speed are you running at? Is it basically 100, or a different number.? I'm asking as more than a few Mhz either direction can cause issues with system components.


    I really appreciate your replies, to the USBs, funny thing is that I just moved my PC to my parent's house so it had to be unplugged for a while, when I reconnected everything I tried to connect my mouse and keyboard to the bottom row (which didn't work before) and they worked immediately, which is super weird, because I didn't do anything in the BIOS yet, as for the front they may not be working because my case came with two USB 3.0 headers instead of 1x USB 3.0 and 1x USB 2.0 or even if it had a USB 2.0 I couldn't be able to use it since the header is used by Corsair Link... I bought a USB 3.0 splitter maybe I didn't connect it well.

    To the RAM, do you mean the CAS timing? that 15-15-15-36 number? I'm still kind of new to this, if so, can I get it even lower (I have just a basic knowledge about what those numbers are - from youtube) BCLK speed is 100, should I then try to get it as close to 3000 or just leave it at 2933? Because I could see a big difference in cinebench score when the RAM finally went (almost) full speed, maybe like extra 50-60 pts.
    Reply to Martines91
  21. The BCLK should be at around 100 for best stability. In earlier UEFI, the BCLK would need adjusted for higher memory ratios, which also changed CPU speed.

    Yes, I do mean the 15-15-15-36. If you can get to about 3000 after adjustments, thats great. If not, you could try lowering the timings a notch to boost performance, as that lowers latency. Try 14-14-14-34 for instance. However, its likely you would need a DRAM voltage bump for this, such as 1.4v. Not certain though, only know if you try.

    On side note, what is your Cinebench R15 score. I get 1702 best case with my Ryzen setup.
    Reply to 1LiquidPC
  22. how low can I go with the latencies to be safe? or when should be enough? 1651 was the best score @ 3,825 GHz w/ 2933MHz 15-15-15-36,
    I set it to 14-14-14-34 and score was 1648 weird, about the BCLK where is the stable limit? Maybe I could bring the memory up to at least 2999MHz or so

    edit: so best settings I guess I can achieve is CPU @ 3825MHz, RAM 2950MHz @ 16-15-15-36 & the score in cinebench was 1651, when I went for 14-14-14-34 it was actually worse in cinebench which seems weird.
    Reply to Martines91
  23. Best answer
    Basically, you can keep trying lower until you'll get to a point of no POST situation, instability in general, or too much voltage. BCLK is about 5Mhz above/below 100 where it can change PCI-E 3.0 to 2.0, and cause other issues. More specifics though I can't say myself.

    Regarding Cinebench, there is a margin of error involved. I can run it 3 times and get scores varying 20 points sometimes. The benefits of lower timings can be seen in other benchmarks(Sisoft Sandra). I really wouldn't bother with timings at this point unless you can't get to 3000 and are trying to get an extra bump in performance to compensate. On a side note, I just ran Cinebench right now and got 1714 with no changes. This is with CPU @ 3.85 and 3200 RAM 14-14-14-34 (XMP for this kit).
    Reply to 1LiquidPC
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