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Water cooling pc getting hot

I have bought a used Water cooled pc and it is getting hot when I am playing games(witcher 3, Hellblade, CSGO).
The CPU and GPU are not overclocked.
CPU (i7 6700k) can reach 80 85 degrees Celsius (checked with realtemp GT), GPU's (2x GTX 970)maximum temperature was ~75 Celsius. Ambient temp ~22 Celsius.
The reservoir is filled ~20% obviously needs to be filled. I have read and came to decision to fill with Distilled water (Mayhems DYE ultra pure water) and Silver coil or chemicals.
What is better silver coil or chemicals or both? If chemicals which one in particular? and what anticorrosive?
I have partially solved the problem by removing front and upper panels, the degrees has fallen drastically by 20 degrees CPU and GPU's. I have made a short video in order to understand easier.
https://youtu.be/wGhFOnQ2_cA
Will the change of the coolant will help or this is a case problem?
Please help me with some advice because I am new in all this.
Reply to pinzariandrei
23 answers Last reply Best Answer
More about water cooling hot
  1. How did you come to those temps? What did you test on it?
    Based off of that short video... the machine looks fairly... messy. How clean are the radiators/fans? Is there a large amount of dust buildup in them? Clean 'em out and see if that gets you anywhere.

    Can you feel the pump moving water through the loop?

    As for fluid--either a premix or distilled water + biocide will get the job done.
    Reply to genthug
  2. looking at your video

    looks like the pumps working--though it may need more rpms possibly

    changing coolant probably wont make much difference--though could do with adding a bit to the res

    the fact it drops 20c by removing top and front panels suggests an air flow problem not a loop problem as such
    Reply to mcnumpty23
  3. My own stock i7 6700 (non 'K') ran sub 60C under water so even with the panels removed yours is still on the warm side for a liquid loop cooled setup.

    Me, I'm lazy and use a premixed coolant that already has the corrosion inhibitors and biocide built in but if you want to mix your own, go ahead, it's the only way to get a custom colour into the coolant although cooling performance won't be significantly different with either.

    Know what, I can't see how the coolant is actually flowing, it looks quite a mess with all those 'T' and 'Y' pieces which probably isn't helping too much although it looks like there's a reasonable flow from the way coolant is moving in the res.

    But, if removing the front and top panels is such a massive help then it sounds like: the air filters are in dire need of cleaning, those panels themselves are too restrictive, the fans could do with either some more speed or being replaced by some with higher performance.
    Also, which way are the fans working, blowing in, out or a mix of in and out?

    Replumbing the system may also be a help, I'd do it this way: Pump>GPU1>GPU2>Top radiator>CPU>front radiator>Res.
    Reply to coozie7
  4. might help if you

    tell us what rpm the pump is at--though definitely see movement in the res so its at least working

    what rpms the rad fans are at

    and as coozie7 asked fans blowing in or out on the rads

    and tend to agree with coozie7 not sure about the t/y pieces

    though it wasnt very easy to see the full loop in one go in your video to try to figure what was flowing where

    so perhaps a longer video and partly from a bit further away to see the whole loop in one shot might also be useful
    Reply to mcnumpty23
  5. 1. How much radiator do you have ? Use this to size rads
    http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator

    (2) 970s = 400 watts
    6700k = 90 watts

    Assuming no water block on MoBo, that's 490 watts and

    8 x 120mm of rad / fans for 10C delta T @ 1250 rpm
    7 x 120mm of rad / fans for 10C delta T @ 1400 rpm
    5 x 120mm of rad / fans for 10C delta T @ 1800 rpm

    6 x 140mm rad / fans for 10C delta T @ 1250 rpm
    5 x 140mm rad / fans for 10C delta T @ 1400 rpm
    4 x 140mm rad / fans for 10C delta T @ 1800 rpm

    2. What are the system components / Flow rate ? / Fan Size and Speeds., Model ?

    3. Is Block tight ?

    4. I use and recommend pre-made coolants with Corrosion inhibitors and Agaecides already incorporated.

    5. Radiator looks like its taken a beating. Adding fans in push / pull can add 10-30% extra cooling

    6. Radiators fans should be intakes ...always, no exceptions.

    8. Fill the reservoir up, best if 80% to get rid of the swirlies which entrap air which could collect in an air pocket and reduce flow..

    9. Flow looks low

    10. Air flow also would appear to be low if removing panels improved temps that much
    Reply to JackNaylorPE
  6. 1. the level of liquid in the res has nothing to do with the high temperatures. of course you want to add some liquid to prevent the air sucking into the loop. just use distilled water as the red die supposed to contain the biocide and anti-corrosive additives.
    2. the problem is the case - it is a very poorly designed one, reminds me of phanteks EVOLV cases which out of the box, are total crap for liquid cooling. the (hot) air from top radiator is simply bouncing back into the case when the top cover is closed.
    you can :
    1. change the case to something with better airflow.
    2. mod the case to have better airflow.
    Reply to n0ns3ns3
  7. Radiators are clean of dust.
    The front fans of radiator blowing inside, the upper ones blowing outside.
    Don't now much about Y T as I am new
    In game I'm testing temps with MSI Afterburner
    Radiator size upper one ~ length 40 cm x width 12 cm x 2.5 cm front one 30x12x2.5 cm
    I have done some testing but again with upper and front panels removed the temps seems alright.
    Witcher all ultra even hair works,
    Second image is cpu stress if fans are on max speed cpu is about 75 Celsius if on 50 % about 82 Celsius
    I will come with an update with panels on.
    http://imgur.com/a/IIxIA
    Reply to pinzariandrei
  8. as a comparison

    if i drop my 7700k to default--ie 4500/4.5ghz with turbo turned on all cores

    same size rads as you--thats a 360mm rad you have in top and 240mm in front---the rad size is the fans it can take by the way not over all length

    so 3 x 120mm fans means a 360mm rad--even if its total length is 400m

    my rads are in same position as yours--but both are drawing air in--with the fans on opposite side of the rad from yours

    ie my fans are pushing air through the rads not pulling it from other side of the rads

    my fans and pump speed--pump 50% around 1500rpm

    fans are at 900--1000rpm

    same cpuz stress you ran i get 70c--thats 5c less than yours on max and 12c on 50%----thats with all my panels in place on the case

    ambient temps close to 25c here just now

    edited--though i am only running 1 gtx1070--overclocked to 2100mhz--but it barely hits 50c full on gaming--using gpuz
    Reply to mcnumpty23
  9. Lots of good answers here, but......it could be just a simple case of needing a flush / fill, make sure your CPU / GPU block haven't become restricted by build up, which is known to happen with mayhem's dies if the rads weren't flushed really well before installation. While I was doing that, I'd do a remount with some good thermal paste.
    Reply to Vellinious
  10. while i wouldnt rule out a flush

    still looks like air flow issue to me

    just watched it again

    dont you have a rear exhaust fan?

    if not then thats a large part of the problem

    i would

    change top rad to intake--with fans on the other side of the rad pushing air in

    move fans on front rad to other side pushing air in

    and get a rear fan on there exhausting--
    Reply to mcnumpty23
  11. n0ns3ns3 said:

    2. the problem is the case - it is a very poorly designed one, reminds me of phanteks EVOLV cases which out of the box, are total crap for liquid cooling. the (hot) air from top radiator is simply bouncing back into the case when the top cover is closed.


    Evolv is well known and highly recommended as an ideal case for water cooling. It is however important, as in any build, that you install the fans properly... Radiator fans should always be installed to get fresh air into the case, no exceptions. Having them push take air out usually results in negative case pressure which not only sucks in dust from the rear case grille and vented slot covers but it's carried in by air from the back of the case which is comprised of hot PSU and GFX card exhaust. This is easily demonstrated with a "can of smoke", a product sold and used to test smoke detectors.
    Reply to JackNaylorPE
  12. pinzariandrei said:

    The front fans of radiator blowing inside, the upper ones blowing outside.


    There's two problems

    1. Cooling your coolant w/ air preheated air
    2. More fans blowing out than in is sucking in PSU and GFX card exhaust

    I don't get your rad sizes....

    Upper ... is this a 120 x 360mm w/ 3 x 120mm fans ? or 140 x 420 mm w/ 3 x 140mm fans

    Lower ... is this a 140 x 240mm w/ 2 x 120mm fans ?or 140 x 280 mm w/ 2 x 140mm fans

    How'd they get so beat up ? ... saw lotta bent fins in that video
    Reply to JackNaylorPE
  13. JackNaylorPE said:
    1. How much radiator do you have ? Use this to size rads
    http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator

    (2) 970s = 400 watts
    6700k = 90 watts

    Assuming no water block on MoBo, that's 490 watts and

    8 x 120mm of rad / fans for 10C delta T @ 1250 rpm
    7 x 120mm of rad / fans for 10C delta T @ 1400 rpm
    5 x 120mm of rad / fans for 10C delta T @ 1800 rpm

    6 x 140mm rad / fans for 10C delta T @ 1250 rpm
    5 x 140mm rad / fans for 10C delta T @ 1400 rpm
    4 x 140mm rad / fans for 10C delta T @ 1800 rpm

    2. What are the system components / Flow rate ? / Fan Size and Speeds., Model ?

    3. Is Block tight ?

    4. I use and recommend pre-made coolants with Corrosion inhibitors and Agaecides already incorporated.

    5. Radiator looks like its taken a beating. Adding fans in push / pull can add 10-30% extra cooling

    6. Radiators fans should be intakes ...always, no exceptions.

    8. Fill the reservoir up, best if 80% to get rid of the swirlies which entrap air which could collect in an air pocket and reduce flow..

    9. Flow looks low

    10. Air flow also would appear to be low if removing panels improved temps that much


    I also have an active Excel sheet that does this - linked in the sticky.


    http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/277130-29-read-first-watercooling-sticky#3718879
    Reply to rubix_1011
  14. Radiator size are upper 360 mm and front 240 mm.
    Reply to pinzariandrei
  15. Radiator size are upper 360 mm and front 240 mm.
    Case is aluminium Phanteks.
    Put the front and upper panels back, played for a while.
    The front radiator it looks fine, it have 4 fans from both sides blowing inside, even when I'm putting my hand on front panel it is chill.
    The upper side its the problem, as soon taken off the problem disappear, at leas reasonable temps.
    I will change fans to blow inside, even buy 3 more to be on both sides, and a rear one. Maybe I will do some mode for upper panel.
    The only thing now is coolant. Should I just add some distilled water? or change it all?
    The colour of coolant now is redish pink, I would prefer to change it all colourless , obviously I haven't done this before and seen only in some videos.
    I will accept some tutorials and brands for premixed coolant, and want to thank you all very much.
    Reply to pinzariandrei
  16. pinzariandrei said:
    Radiator size are upper 360 mm and front 240 mm.
    Case is aluminium Phanteks.
    Put the front and upper panels back, played for a while.
    The front radiator it looks fine, it have 4 fans from both sides blowing inside, even when I'm putting my hand on front panel it is chill.
    The upper side its the problem, as soon taken off the problem disappear, at leas reasonable temps.
    I will change fans to blow inside, even buy 3 more to be on both sides, and a rear one. Maybe I will do some mode for upper panel.
    The only thing now is coolant. Should I just add some distilled water? or change it all?
    The colour of coolant now is redis would prefer to change it all, obviously I haven't done this before and seen only in some videos



    the front rad is fine then

    just move the top rad fans to above the radiator blowing in wards

    and most importantly put a rear exhaust fan it should make a good difference

    if you want to change coolant colour

    you will not only need to drain the coolant out

    but also flush the whole thing through thoroughly as the red will take a bit of getting rid off
    Reply to mcnumpty23
  17. Best answer
    rubix_1011 said:
    I also have an active Excel sheet that does this - linked in the sticky.

    http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/277130-29-read-first-watercooling-sticky#3718879


    1. I have not found the "theoretical formulas" using voltage ^2 to correspond to real measurements. I can't access the sticky so can not evaluate. The spreadsheets in the link I gave you were vouched for my MartinsLiquidlLab

    2. Phanteks what ? Can't address specifics w/o know what model. Like ordering spark plugs for ya car, counter guy can't do much with "Blue Chevy"

    3. Again that top rad looks like it was out in a hail storm. Some phanteks cases have a filter under the top grille which is removable.

    4. having the to fans blow inside will be HUGE. Not only cools ya coolant with fresh outside air but stops the hot PSU / GFX card exhaust from being pulled into the case

    5. i find premixed coolant better than other options ... mayhems, Swiftech and many sources available.
    Reply to JackNaylorPE
  18. PHANTEKS Enthoo Evolv ATX Silver-Edition Midi-Tower
    Top filter was already removed
    Reply to pinzariandrei
  19. JackNaylorPE said:


    Evolv is well known and highly recommended as an ideal case for water cooling. It is however important, as in any build, that you install the fans properly... Radiator fans should always be installed to get fresh air into the case, no exceptions. Having them push take air out usually results in negative case pressure which not only sucks in dust from the rear case grille and vented slot covers but it's carried in by air from the back of the case which is comprised of hot PSU and GFX card exhaust. This is easily demonstrated with a "can of smoke", a product sold and used to test smoke detectors.



    EVOLV is the most beautiful crap case on the market and is not designed for liquid - AIO at most.
    top of the case is the most retarded decision/design ever for the airflow.
    you can not use this case for anything overclocked with a TDP of 350watts or more if your ambient temp is above 25C.
    what people do, they are:
    * removing side and top cover (like JayzTwoCents)
    * seriously modifying the case to remove airflow restrictions like Singularity Computers.

    so
    Reply to n0ns3ns3
  20. Well let's say I'm on the same side as the dozens of reviewers calling the EvolvATX case one of the best cases ever ... and that includes water cooling (fitting twin 360s tho I'd prolly use a 280). I prefer the Luxe TG myself for the bigger size ability to use 420mm rad and place the fans in the 'attic" on top. It is however a small case and that does introduce some limitations. But every small case is similarly affected, in most cases much more so.

    Citing Jayn2cents ... the guy who drilled thru his motherboard to install a cooler and is shocked when it doesn't boot, isn't helping your case. Since your using outube as a source, I'll list some other reviews.

    -Best Case of 2015 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQfRDSGlNqI
    -Best Case Ever - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdRlHMkZS8Y&t=270s
    -Best Case I've Ever Seen - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1o5HHmM2Ug&t=342s
    -Its a small case and a slong as you keep that inj mind and plan accordingly you can do a really noce loop in it" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfLJfP0XyaE

    Some nice builds
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCBESlnFvfg
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vm50sOKN9ws&t=29s
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vy9GZlxCHjY&t=1s

    Are there better cases for bit time water cooling ? Of course, I have an Enthoo Primo, my son has an Enthoo Luxe. But of you want / need something in a smaller form factor, with proper planning you can install an excellent loop.
    Reply to JackNaylorPE
  21. I trust the Funny Jay way more than HWcanucks - they do excellent artistic job (shots, video etc) but they clearly lack a tech knowledge.
    The reviews you link are not talking about cooling. especially not about the top mounted radiator case.
    They all talking about layout, features, look and quality - and all those are great, I love them. My only complain about the EVOLV series is airflow - and that is why they get my "crap" award for high end systems. The total front intake opening surface is probably less than one of the 120mm fan - restriction? the total surface of the top exhaust is less than one of 120mm fan. even worse, the top radiator would be "hanging in the air", so the airflow from the fans will mostly bounce of the mostly solid top cover (tiny meshed openings on sides and somewhat decent rear one) and will return to the case sucked again by top rad fans. even if you do put something around the rad to prevent the air going back, the top cover is very restrictive and fans will have to work pretty hard to push the hot air out.
    The ~20C difference between closed case and front/top panels removed in OP show it very well.

    IMO, Fractal Design Define series of cases has way better airflow along the same or better liquid cooling options and convenience of working with. They do lack the build quality and some fancy features like RGB and TG (except the new meshy one), but those are easier to add than to improve airflow.

    Back to the topic, the problem described by OP is the poor airflow of the EVOLV case. it can be solved only by either removing the top and/or front covers of the case or seriously modifying the case.
    Reply to n0ns3ns3
  22. n0ns3ns3 said:
    I trust the Funny Jay way more than HWcanucks - they do excellent artistic job (shots, video etc) but they clearly lack a tech knowledge.
    The reviews you link are not talking about cooling. especially not about the top mounted radiator case.
    They all talking about layout, features, look and quality - and all those are great, I love them. My only complain about the EVOLV series is airflow - and that is why they get my "crap" award for high end systems. The total front intake opening surface is probably less than one of the 120mm fan - restriction? the total surface of the top exhaust is less than one of 120mm fan. even worse, the top radiator would be "hanging in the air", so the airflow from the fans will mostly bounce of the mostly solid top cover (tiny meshed openings on sides and somewhat decent rear one) and will return to the case sucked again by top rad fans. even if you do put something around the rad to prevent the air going back, the top cover is very restrictive and fans will have to work pretty hard to push the hot air out.
    The ~20C difference between closed case and front/top panels removed in OP show it very well.

    IMO, Fractal Design Define series of cases has way better airflow along the same or better liquid cooling options and convenience of working with. They do lack the build quality and some fancy features like RGB and TG (except the new meshy one), but those are easier to add than to improve airflow.

    Back to the topic, the problem described by OP is the poor airflow of the EVOLV case. it can be solved only by either removing the top and/or front covers of the case or seriously modifying the case.


    Well making some custom holes with a drill in top panel doesn't sound like ,, seriously modifying the case " at least for me. It could be made into something cool. I haven't done anything yet due to lack of time.
    Reply to pinzariandrei
  23. I'd start with removing the mesh cover of the vent holes on top panel and using some foam around the top rad to prevent hot air bouncing back to the case.
    if that will not lower the temps enough, making additional holes in the top cover is an option too. though i'd use a dremel to cut them.
    Reply to n0ns3ns3
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