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What Parts to Cheap out on with a Custom Water Loop?

I'm looking to get a hardline water cooled system just for the CPU.
I want to get it reasonably cheap, but not over the top. I am willing to pay full price on a branded CPU block and fittings, but what is okay to get off ebay. I don't want $2 parts on there, but if I could get a water cooled system for around $200AUD ($170USD).

I found this pump/reservoir combo: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/300mm-Cylinder-Water-Tank-SC... and I was not planning to have the res on top of the pump like in the picture.

Anyways, help me out here if possible because I'm sure there are lots of other people who want to know too. Please try to stick to Australian based sites, don't want to pay $40 for shipping from USA to Australia.
Thanks again
Reply to huchick
25 answers Last reply Best Answer
More about parts cheap custom water loop
  1. getochkn said:


    Really good, i looked at some other ones too. I was looking for hardline tubing however, a 280mm rad (which i found) but i wanted a tall cylinder reservoir. I'll look once this message is sent but I can't find anything right now. Thanks again

    Edit: Also gonna pick up good fans afterwards, like corsair af140 or BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 and im gonna get some red coolant. still want to stay around 200.
    Sorry for the hassle
    Reply to huchick
  2. I think your budget isn't going to allow what you want. Save up more and get what you really want. Going with cheap no-name Chinese ebay parts just increasing the chance for a leak. You can go with the best pump, block, rad and use cheap fitting and have it leak.
    Reply to getochkn
  3. the minimum price for a decent loop that worth the money is around 200USD.
    If you want to get away on cheap, get Swiftech H220 X2. replace fittings and tubes and you are set.
    Reply to n0ns3ns3
  4. I emailed EK and they said in a couple weeks or days they'll be releasing some compatable parts for their EK Fluid Gaming lineup. I'll wait for that, If not, I'll just get the A240 by EK then upgrade it along the line. Thanks again guys.
    Reply to huchick
  5. it's a nice option, but there are no spare parts like fittings and radiators out there yet. it's the reason i have not mentioned it yet.
    don't get it before those parts made available as finding good aluminum fittings/rads is next to impossible.
    Reply to n0ns3ns3
  6. n0ns3ns3 said:
    it's a nice option, but there are no spare parts like fittings and radiators out there yet. it's the reason i have not mentioned it yet.
    don't get it before those parts made available as finding good aluminum fittings/rads is next to impossible.


    IM ACTUALLY SO HAPPY RIGHT NOW I THINK I GOT THE SOLUTION. I DID SOME GOOD SEARCHING AND FOUND USED AND NEW PARTS.

    does this look okay for a water cooling build? I hope i have everything except for the G1/4" fittings, I will be getting these: https://www.mwave.com.au/product/thermaltake-pacific-g14-petg-tube-58-16mm-od-adapter-black-ab80193 .

    Just to confirm, is that good enough and is that everything I need?
    Thanks

    Edit: I don't think the pump and reservoir fit directly on top of eachother, but I can just run tubes from the pump to the res, correct? just keep them really close?
    Reply to huchick
  7. 1. corsair's fans are crap. AF fans are bad for rads. at least get SP ones.
    2. you have not listed pump. the first item is actually the top for the pump.
    3. I do not recommend 16mm tube. you want a tube with 12mm OD top. otherwise you will need a very powerful pump to push air out of such tubing. just keep in mind that inner diameter of the G1/4" fitting is under 10mm. So the flow will be restricted by them.
    I like those fittings and they come in 6packs : https://www.alphacool.com/shop/fittings/hardtube/hardtube-1310/21641/alphacool-eiszapfen-13mm-hardtube-anschraubtuelle-g1/4-fuer-plexi-messingrohre-deep-black-sixpack
    Reply to n0ns3ns3
  8. n0ns3ns3 said:
    1. corsair's fans are crap. AF fans are bad for rads. at least get SP ones.
    2. you have not listed pump. the first item is actually the top for the pump.
    3. I do not recommend 16mm tube. you want a tube with 12mm OD top. otherwise you will need a very powerful pump to push air out of such tubing. just keep in mind that inner diameter of the G1/4" fitting is under 10mm. So the flow will be restricted by them.
    I like those fittings and they come in 6packs : https://www.alphacool.com/shop/fittings/hardtube/hardtube-1310/21641/alphacool-eiszapfen-13mm-hardtube-anschraubtuelle-g1/4-fuer-plexi-messingrohre-deep-black-sixpack


    Hi again, I took your feedback and came up with this:

    I'm buying 12/10mm PETG tubing, adapters and a silicone insert from else-where. I really appreciate you helping me out here, I sound like I'm new to computers but I promise I'm not, just watercooling. And feedback and/or thoughts would be appreciated. I will check for materials but I am pretty sure everytthing is copper so far. Thanks again.

    (Like i said in the previous post i think, if the pump top doesn't fit into the res, I can just have it before the res then have short tubes go up to the res, correct?)
    Reply to huchick
  9. Best answer
    it looks better. Keep in mind that this pump is not the strongest (especially 2400 version). in future, if you'd like to expand the loop to a GPU, you will probably need a stronger one.

    if the res is not mounted to the pump directly, you just connect it to the inlet with tube.

    As a side note, avoid red liquids :) the like to stain and block the flow.
    Reply to n0ns3ns3
  10. Alright, I'll just ask two more things, I promise.
    Although I will need a better pump if I wanted to cool my gpu, is it fine just for thr CPU? And my whole PC will be red and black and I sorta need red liquid. What do I do there? Thanks again, I'll be sure to pick you as best solution
    Reply to huchick
  11. the 2400 pump should work in an average mid tower case. the 3600 will work in most cases.

    The red - completely replace the liquid every year or so. inspect the inside of the CPU block for the residue.

    P.S.
    1. feel free to ask as many questions as you need - it may save you time and money.
    2. i'm not here for solutions - i just enjoy helping people ;)
    Reply to n0ns3ns3
  12. n0ns3ns3 said:
    the 2400 pump should work in an average mid tower case. the 3600 will work in most cases.

    The red - completely replace the liquid every year or so. inspect the inside of the CPU block for the residue.

    P.S.
    1. feel free to ask as many questions as you need - it may save you time and money.
    2. i'm not here for solutions - i just enjoy helping people ;)


    Thanks again.
    I got an NZXT S340 Elite.
    Also, will I need to add an extra outlet of somesort to drain the liquid, for filling I know that I can just use the top of the reservoir and it will go down to the pump and move around the loop. But for draining, any suggestions?

    Also, I'm almost certain with this one, but the loop should start at the 'out' on the CPU block, move down to the pump, then to the res almost instantly after the res, then up to the radiator and out of the rad back into the 'in' part of the block, correct?

    Thanks again bud :)

    Edit: Should I be turning down the voltage, apparently at 12V it is very loud, would 5V be okay?
    are you able to draw up a diagram on paint as to how its connected just so I can double check I got it right. I use extender adapters from the pump to the res from what I know. Please confirm. Thanks again
    Reply to huchick
  13. the only important order is "liquid goes from res to the pump". from pump, the liquid can go to rad or block - not important at all.
    don't ever run the pump without liquid.
    you can add a T-fitting + ball valve. it's convenient but not must. and those are not cheap. you can add it later.
    Reply to n0ns3ns3
  14. I'm a bit confused as the direction. If the loop were to start at the block for example, would it go to the radiator, the res then the pump, or would it go to the pump, the res then the rad? Maybe even draw a diagram if possible?

    Also, if the pump doesn't fit, you said I can just put it directly under the res and connect it with short tubes or extender adapters, correct?

    Just want to make sure I get everything right and understand before I buy the parts.
    Reply to huchick
  15. the loop starts at reservoir. from reservoir it goes to pump. from pump it goes to the nearest component like radiator or block in any order.

    this pump can not be connected to the reservoir directly. only with tubes/adapters. keep in mind you need fittings for this too.
    Reply to n0ns3ns3
  16. Outside of the reservoir->pump, loop order does not matter.
    Reply to rubix_1011
  17. n0ns3ns3 said:
    the loop starts at reservoir. from reservoir it goes to pump. from pump it goes to the nearest component like radiator or block in any order.

    this pump can not be connected to the reservoir directly. only with tubes/adapters. keep in mind you need fittings for this too.


    So I think this: http://www.au.aquatuning.com/AtsdCartSave/load/key/6d85031d613d71e8c7d572a6a658354f
    is the final choice of parts. I am getting G1/4 fittings (12mm OD) and 10/12mm PETG tubing from EK. Is this definitely all it and all compatable? Should I be scared at all?

    I imagine the risks are leaking, but if I've done everything right, the worst thing would be a minor leak, which can be fixed by tightening the compression fittings, correct?

    Please answer these questions and I'll be gone forever aha. Building this weekend or next week.
    Reply to huchick
  18. it seems to be compatible with each other.
    there is nothing to be scared. just check your self. do not fill the loop when other than pump components are connected to power.
    first time, fill the loop with distilled water - it does no damage even if spilled.
    since you are going with rigid tubes, think about drain port with ball valve - you will need it.

    And do not use corsair's AF fans on radiator - they are very ineffective in pushing air through radiator.
    Reply to n0ns3ns3
  19. which somewhat inexpensive fans would you suggest?

    and as for cutting the tube, should I be using a pipe cutter or use the item JayzTwoCentz used in the mini water cooling build with Paul's Hardware, it made clean cuts

    After cutting, do i chamfer the edges or just sand them flat so they're smoother?

    Thanks again
    Reply to huchick
  20. at least those: https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/JTvRsY/corsair-case-fan-co9050019ww
    they cost the same as what you have selected.
    i'd recommend to use those: https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/7YvRsY/scythe-case-fan-d1225c12b5ap15
    but it's very hard to get them.
    I personally use only noctua fans, but they are a bit more expensive.
    if i were to build today, i'd use those : https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/rhQRsY/noctua-nf-a12x15-pwm-942-cfm-120mm-fan-nf-a12x15-pwm
    currently i use those: https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/NcQypg/noctua-case-fan-nff12industrialppc2000pwm they are just awesome for radiators due to focused airflow. if you don't mind the color, there is a standard brown model: https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/b2vRsY/noctua-case-fan-nff12pwm
    all noctua fans come with 6 years warranty and outlive the Corsair's by far. not to mention noise and performance.
    Reply to n0ns3ns3
  21. What do i do after cutting the tubes? Do i have to sand?

    what do i use for cutting?
    Reply to huchick
  22. most people use a saw. but even kitchen knife can do the job. I do it with dremel.
    you should do something about edges. not necessarily sanding, but some sort of it like fine file or use a special toy https://www.alphacool.com/shop/hardtubes/acrylic-tubes/acrylic-tube-accessories/19494/alphacool-acrylrohr-und-schlauchentgrater-light-version
    there are much cheaper versions on aliexpress and ebay :)
    Reply to n0ns3ns3
  23. n0ns3ns3 said:
    most people use a saw. but even kitchen knife can do the job. I do it with dremel.
    you should do something about edges. not necessarily sanding, but some sort of it like fine file or use a special toy https://www.alphacool.com/shop/hardtubes/acrylic-tubes/acrylic-tube-accessories/19494/alphacool-acrylrohr-und-schlauchentgrater-light-version
    there are much cheaper versions on aliexpress and ebay :)


    Hey again,
    Almost finished all my research. I got a ball valve and 1 soft tube with a couple other fittings so I have an outlet to empty out the loop when needed. Sadly I didn't really go with any of the fans you said due to the colours and availability in Australia. I have gone with the EK Vardar fans, but if you know any red/black fans for around $15-$30 which are good for radiators, let me know.

    As for sanding the edges, I assume you mean outer edges? so the tube should look like this:
    /``````\
    |______|

    Also, I wanted to save a bit of money on fittings. http://www.au.aquatuning.com/water-cooling/fittings/acylic-tube-fittings/1210mm/21639/alphacool-eiszapfen-12mm-hardtube-anschraubtuelle-g1/4-fuer-carbonrohre-deep-black-sixpack?c=12385 These have the right dimensions but they are supposedly only for Carbonrohre or Stiff tubing (PUR). I reckon they will work with PETG because I don't know why they wouldn't but I would like to get your opinion on it. I really would love to save the money there.

    Besides that, all the parts are chosen and I'm ready to order.

    Thank you so much for your help throughout this, I wouldn't have been able to do it otherwise.

    Edit: I have decided to choose the ML120 PRO LED fans, they seem very good and I've seen them in water cooled builds before. They also look amazing and fit my colour scheme perfectly.
    Reply to huchick
  24. those fittings are totally fine - I use them in my build. they worked with acrylic tubes (test run) and doing perfectly fine with glass tubing.
    the purpose of the edge sanding is:
    1. remove anything that can cut the o-ring in fittings
    2. clean the edge of anything that can get lose and travel on your loop.
    so after cutting the tube, you sand (or whatever way you chose) both the inner and outer.

    The ML fans are fine and way better than AF. though for that price i'd definitely go with the Noctua's NF-A15. probably would paint them (the frame) in black
    Reply to n0ns3ns3
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