Best CPU cooler that fits in phanteks p400s

Looking for a good CPU cooler that will fit in phanteks p400s. Official case clearance is 160mm but is it correct. Looking at thermal right macho rev b which is 162mm high could it possibly fit?
Reply to Dova-Pug
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  1. Best answer
    The manual states that the CPU cooler clearance is 160mm. That means you can use the Noctua NH-D15S, but not the NH-D15.

    That's probably the best you can fit, short of water-cooling.

    UPDATE: With regards to getting the Thermalright to fit, you should assume that the stated clearance is the absolute maximum if the case is constructed to the greatest allowable tolerances. The true clearance is usually less than the officially stated clearance.
    Reply to the nerd 389
  2. Ok thanks
    Reply to Dova-Pug
  3. wait what? The true clearance is usually less than states? So your saying they over exaggerate the clearance on a computer case? thought it if anything they under estimate it a little just to be safe.
    Reply to glytch5
  4. glytch5 said:
    wait what? The true clearance is usually less than states? So your saying they over exaggerate the clearance on a computer case? thought it if anything they under estimate it a little just to be safe.

    All I'm saying is that it's generally wise to include a few millimeters of room to account for the manufacturing tolerances of the case. If you plan down to the millimeter, then you run the risk of getting a case that's on the smaller side of the tolerances, which would cause the top of the heatsink to come into contact with the side of the case. In that situation, picture what an otherwise harmless bump would do to the motherboard.
    Reply to the nerd 389
  5. It appears then I am still in the same situation as my case that would not allow for a fan higher than 150mm
    There are no good CPU coolers that are under 160, that do not use those stupid AMD clips! It is very annoying.

    I do not buy cooler master... so the 212 is outa the question.
    Reply to glytch5
  6. glytch5 said:
    It appears then I am still in the same situation as my case that would not allow for a fan higher than 150mm
    There are no good CPU coolers that are under 160, that do not use those stupid AMD clips! It is very annoying.

    I do not buy cooler master... so the 212 is outa the question.

    Reply to the nerd 389
  7. 130? 150? Just don't want anything enormous... like a custom loop, or a 3 fan radiator or a twin tower cooler.

    Every time I look at one thing, another seems better... I was about to buy a kraken but they seemed to be sold out everywhere... so now I am considering a corsair h100i V2... but I have to order a AM4 kit for that, which corsair wants 10 bucks all said and done... and THEN they want to ship it UPS which is going to take 7 days... I can have the cooler here in two days with prime. Very annoying.
    Reply to glytch5
  8. How much cooling do you need? The Cryorig H7 lumi is a great little cooler at just 145mm tall, outperforms the hyper212 easily, as well as beating all the 120mm aios (and some 140mm) except the new corsair h45. Or maybe if you are really wanting small, there's the 92mm Raijintek Aidos or even the ereboss, both of which also are better than the hyper212. Or you could go 140mm like an nzxt Kraken x52 or 240mm aio like the deepcool captain, which also comes in white, or even as high as a 280mm aio like a kraken x61 which is a top ranked aio.
    Reply to Karadjgne
  9. I am currently running a Noctua u9s in here... at stock clocks and voltages my CPU (1700x) hits 67.5 degrees under load... I know thats nothing to worry about but my stupid 120watt TDP FX chip overclocked 300 MHZs with a slightly bigger cooler only hits 55 at full load... so I don't want "heavy overclocking" performance, but I want something to get these thermals in the mid to high 50s.
    I am realizing this case is terrible for thermals. I was looking at the kraken but its sold out everywhere!

    I wanted to add, the ryzen thermals are recorded in ryzen master... so it is supposedly the correct temps, not the exaggerated ones.
    Reply to glytch5
  10. is the The Cryorig H7 lumi really much bigger than the u9s? I guess its wider...
    I'm seeing two of those coolers... one says the the full brand name on top, and one says just cr... are they the same thing? The one newegg has does not say lumi... that is confusing.

    EDIT: oh I see, the newer one has an additional heat pipe, the CR one is the older version. Definitely gotta have the newer one... I can't find it for sale though.
    Reply to glytch5
  11. If you have room for a compact 240mm radiator, consider the Fractal Design Celsius S24. It manages to outperform quite a number of 280mm AIOs.
    Reply to the nerd 389
  12. Alright so I bought something... no one recommended this but hey, its amazon prime day sale and it there!
    Corsair h100i V2... I already ordered the mount from corsair, hopefully it doesn't take an incredibly long time to get here.
    Reply to glytch5
  13. It's not a bad cooler. Just be prepared to replace the fans. The ones it comes with are pretty annoying (as are most Corsair fans). The Silent Wings 3 are a good choice.
    Reply to the nerd 389
  14. Oh yeah I got a bunch of fans in store... noctuas and many other. I am kind of a fan-atic haha. I love fans.
    My favorite high pressure fans in terms of looks and all around quality and customer support have been thermaltake Riing fans. They are built real tough, can run at 1600 RPM in 120mm and thermaltake answers all calls and emails...
    Hopefully corsair has good customer service.

    I am super worried about leaking on my computer though... Is there any weird rule with the cooler I bought, like you have to mount it above your CPU or it won't work? I plan to mount it in front of the case.
    Reply to glytch5
  15. Be aware. There is air in the reservoir, it's a sealed system, but it's not 100% full, this allows for pressure variations with heat and expansion etc. The cpu sits about 2/3rds the way up the case, the top of the reservoir will be barely higher than that. Since air will naturally be at the pinnicle, IF during install, movement of the case, whatever, the pump becomes the pinnicle, then that's where the air will go, which creates a very noisy pump, that does almost nothing for temps as there'll be no liquid in the pump. So, if you do install the rad in the front, be prepared to tilt the front of the case upwards at the end of any case movement, to allow the air to travel to the top of the radiator, vrs sitting in the pump. Basically you'll be priming the pump. With a top mount radiator, the only way you'll ever get air in the pump is to basically turn the pc upside down, and normally gravity will take care of priming the pump for you.

    The chances of any aio leaking are slim to none at best, all I use is aios, never had a leak. Just don't stress any of the connections, jerk on hoses etc. User abuse is more likely to cause a leak than any manufacturer defect.
    Reply to Karadjgne
  16. Thank you for that answer! I had no idea...
    Is any of this going to be in the Corsair manual?
    In this case I am stuck mounting it on the front... no other option. So what you are saying is:
    WHen I first install it and fire up the computer, tilt the case for a bit to prime the pump? and anytime I move the case around, repeat the process? I have never heard of this!

    I read a couple of your answers Karadjdne about plugging in the pump into the CPU header all that.
    my motherboard has a dedicated 4 pinn pump header... so if I plug my pump into that, its going to run at full blast all day correct? and then plugging my fans into the CPU header is going to allow for temperature related fan curves correct?
    Reply to glytch5
  17. Ok. Lol. Popular subject.

    The 4pin cpu_fan header on any modern mobo is dedicated pwm. It will not allow DC voltage control of any DC item, be it fan or pump. So when you install the pump lead to that header, the pump receives the full 12v as the pwm signal isn't used. For a smaller aio like the h60, yes, that would mean the pump runs max, and the fan is regulated to a sys_fan header for control. I'm not a fan of that hookup as you'll get system temps controlling fan speeds, not cpu temps, so I personally will use cpu_aux (12v dedicated) for the pump, or a sys_fan header for the pump (bios set for 100% duty cycle, so not controlled at all) and leave the cpu_fan header controlling a pwm fan on the radiator. Note, this is contrary to Corsair's directions. Corsair does it it's way because of the cpu_fan header tach lead. If that tach sees no fan or 0rpm, it'll immediately shut down the pc or fail to boot, this is a safety issue with the mobo to protect the cpu and pc in general.
    That said, the h100i v2 and others like my kraken are different. They use tailored software (in your case it's Corsair link) to control voltages/pwm in the pump outputs. This is done by the supplied USB. The power for everything comes from the psu directly by Sata connection, the cpu_fan header doesn't power anything, it's only reason is the tach wire to read pump speed and get around the cpu 0rpm security.
    So, use the 3pin pump lead in the cpu_fan header. The cpu_pump (cpu_aux, cpu_fan 2 etc) is for other applications like a small aio pump etc
    Reply to Karadjgne
  18. Interesting alright...
    As for the priming the radiator/pump and tilting the case, is what I said correct? Or did I not understand what you meant.

    On a secondary note: should I plug in my pump and flick it on outside of the case to make sure its functioning before installing it? Will I have any way of knowing?
    Reply to glytch5
  19. Nope you got it right. It would be fine if the hoses reached to the bottom of the radiator, so the reservoir was on top, that way there'd be no travel, but you'll see the hoses will have to be on top.

    I recent got a bug while doing my 6 month heavy clean and rearranged my radiator to sit in front. My case sits in a cubby, and some of the wires are 's little short, so I had to stick the case in partially, tilt the front down and reach over the top for the last 2 usb connections. Fired up the pc and was unpleasantly surprised by the racket. Took me a minute (and re-removal of the connections) to figure out what had happened. Air trapped in the pump, the tilt forward allowed the reservoir air to run up the hose since the pump was now higher than the radiator, which drained the pump. Stuck it all back together, slid the pc back fully into the cubby, fired it up, got the loud pump vibrations again, jacked the front of the case up about 6-8 inches and this set the liquid level higher than the pump, so it primed. Problem solved.

    Now there is 1 added bonus to all this. These aios are sealed, black rubber hoses etc, so liquid levels and any dissipation are impossible to judge. Since the rad is on front, unless I move the case, the pump will be loser than the top liquid level. Upto the point where the aio is so old that the level of dissipation has actually lowered the amount of liquid in the radiator, leaving the pump 'high and dry'. So it's an accidental bonus of having an alarm if you have too low liquid levels and it's either time to replace or refill the radiator.
    Reply to Karadjgne
  20. Thanks so much!
    I wanted to ask you kinda a dumb question about the corsair with the USB link stuff. The supplied USB cable that hooks up to the motherboard is waaaay too short for what i wanted to do with it... can you link me on amazon or somewhere the PROPER type of extension for that? I see a few that are similar, but the amount of wires hooked up to the ends are different than the supplied corsair cable... got any suggestions there? IDK why they made it so damn short... I certainly do not want it hanging over the visible side of my board!
    Reply to glytch5
  21. Should be a standard 9/10 pin male-female internal motherboard USB extension cable. Most places like Amazon or newegg have them,in a variety of sizes and one I saw for $4 even has customizable colored sleeving to match builds. (extra cost). Prices run $4- @$12.
    Reply to Karadjgne
  22. Can you link me to it? Is that allowed on here? I just want to buy the correct thing.
    Its funny, in the manual it shows the USB thing connects to the cooler plate on the top, and it shows to route it behind your mobo at the top, down and up from the bottom and plug it on... however realistically it mounts to the cooler plate ON BOTTOM! In that situation there is no way with standard ATX I am ganna get that thing to reach behind the mobo all the way down and then out to reach the header. STUPID
    Reply to glytch5
  23. ah well if you want the corsair logo facing correctly, its on the bottom!
    Do I absolutely need the USB thing? Or is that just for link? I am thinking about not using it at all.
    Reply to glytch5
  24. YEEAAAp I knew something like this was ganna happen....
    My unit is leaking and I have not yet installed it, just been sitting on the table as I have been waiting on the AM4 bracket. Of course the bracket just arrived in the mail...
    There is a slight reflective bit of moisture right where both fittings attached to the radiator meet the hoses... it almost looks like lubrication in there.
    Its not actually dripping or getting wet, but I see something in there and when I hit it with compressed air it does move around.

    I swear I am the most unlucky person with buying brand new stuff. Very disappointed. Called Corsair they said you shouldn't be seeing that. F@&K!!!!!
    Reply to glytch5
  25. Also these stock fans... they did not seem loud off the rad when I tested them but WOW, they make this constant low pitched "WOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOOOOOOWOWOWOWOWO" sound... it literally gives me a headache! I definitely putting my Riing fans on my replacement or buying Noctuas...

    Not sure if having the ring fans on there with 3 pin cables is okay or not.
    Reply to glytch5
  26. Corsair's upper grade aios use pwm fans now, better rpm range. The 3pin fans can be made to work, but not via the pump. You'll need to use SpeedFan and a sys_fan header, but set the fan address for the cpu temp, not the mobo temp. It's convoluted, but it'll work to change fan speeds. The 3pin from the pump still can go to the cpu_fan header.
    Reply to Karadjgne
  27. Well... I bought some Noctuas to use...
    but anyway if I wanted to use my ring fans, what if I just plugged them into my mobo, and used my mobos smart fan settings to have them come up and down with the CPU temp? the MSI pro carbon x370 has like a fully adjustable curve you can set for DC or PWM?

    is any of that normal with the visible moisture/liquid between the hose and fitting on the radiator side? I doubt it is... I am using it right now, keeping a very close eye and not much is happening... got a new one on the way from amazon. Hopefully its not the same thing. Guy on the phone at corsair said hoses should be dry.
    Reply to glytch5
  28. Hoses should always be dry.

    As long as there is something in the cpu_fan header, you can do anything else you please with fans etc.
    Reply to Karadjgne
  29. Your the man dude... seriously you saved me so much time before I even got this thing. I basically knew all I was ganna need to know before it was in my hands since you commented on here... which answer do you want me to select as the solution?

    The leak is so tiny i'm sure most people would never have noticed it. You really have to put your face right up to it with a flashlight and look close. I could totally see someone buying this, getting a huge leak later on and hating corsair forever.
    I was surprised at how quiet this pump is... but man these fans... THESE FANS! the noise above 1000 RPM is instant headache.
    Reply to glytch5
  30. You already did, way back in the beginning of the post, and thats cool, the nerd 389 did answer your original question sufficiently. Yes, my corsair pump is silent, as is my nzxt, but yes, I too replaced the craptastic corsair stock fan. Lol.

    Just glad things seem to be coming together for you.
    G.L :D

    BTW, none of my aio fans spin faster than @700rpm at highest unless I stress test, then the curves are set for 900rpm max. There's no need. The difference on my nzxt between silent mode and performance mode is 3-4°C, and a ton of noise added, so honestly not worth the effort. Stays silent.
    Reply to Karadjgne
  31. Okay so the "leak" I am talking about here is a picture! THis is a guy over on corsairs forum, he said this is his second cooler to do this, it looks exactly like mine. What do you guys think? Leak or normal?
    Reply to glytch5
  32. Leak. Happens every now and then, usually in the same batch of radiators. If the rad spout is only a hair out of exact spec too small, when the tubing is attached, it's not done under correct pressure. Since this is all done by machines, the crimp will be the same size, but the tubing will still be slightly looser than optimal, allowing the slow leakage of coolant. If it was a just started leak, no worries, you could just add some more to the crimp, but as it's not, then there's no telling just how much coolant has been lost. Better to just RMA, it's a manufacturer defect.
    Reply to Karadjgne
  33. Ah thank you. I guess this is pretty common. Seems like it happens a lot.
    Luckily I bought through amazon, so replacement will be here tomorrow! Apprec you looking at that.
    Reply to glytch5
  34. It's not common, per se, but it does happen. It's a machine made part, just like an air cooler, sometimes they can have warped bases etc.
    Reply to Karadjgne
  35. Thats true... everything is mass produced over seas on the cheap...
    This ryzen build has just had so many problems. 4 motherboards, and now two coolers. 2 hard drives.
    Reply to glytch5
  36. Alright so I got the replacement up and running. Everything is going smoothly so far.
    And as for those insanely loud fans... my two noctua Nf-F12s also arrived. That horribly loud wowowowowowow sound is gone... running a tower of all noctua now and things are nice n quiet.
    I still do see some reflective stuff on those fittings... but there is no moisture noticeable on the tubes... so hopefully i'm good!

    here is the temps:
    1700x overclocked to 3.8 on all cores, running at stock voltage. I max out in temps around 63.5 degrees with AIDA64.
    With my noctua U9S overclocked to 3.7 I was leveling out at 69 ot 70 I think.

    Honestly I was expecting better thermals with a 95watt chip... downstairs I have my FX8350 with a simple Thermaltake Riing silent 12 cooler, overclocked to 4.3 on stock voltage, and the temps max out at 55! I think that chip is also 120 watt? So yeah... I guess air cooler do perform well.
    Reply to glytch5
  37. Could it possibly be that the FX 8350 is 8 cores/ 8 threads, 125w running under a 200w cooler, vrs a R7 1700x 8 cores/16 threads @180w running under a 300w+ cooler.

    You have to understand just how different liquid coolers are from air coolers. Air coolers heat quickly, anything metal does, but it also has finite limits. Even the best aircoolers like the Noctua NH-D15 handily trump any of the 280mm aios, at less than max. This is where aios shine, not in general cooling as much but in maximum ability. That same Noctua will top out much faster, the hotter the cpu gets, the faster it reaches max ability. Liquids are different. That coolant has a far greater ability to absorb heat energy than any air cooler made. So while you are looking at cpu temps, understand that that's just a number, not an indication of performance. The 1700x 16 threads are putting out a massive amount of energy under Aida64 torture, and while you see 66 as a failure, it's still far cooler than the FX 8350 in comparison. If that FX put out 16t, your little aircooler would fry.
    Reply to Karadjgne
  38. I knew that water testing takes a lot longer to get results.. with the air cooler I wait five minutes or so and say okay thats probably the temps... with the AIO I give it about 20 minutes to build up and flatten out.
    So what your saying is, even though my max temp appears to be not so great, it could probably handle more heat than what is has going now, and still stay somewhere around that level?
    Its all new to me buddy!
    From what everyone says, the ryzen chips don't put out that much heat compared to the older chips... i'm thinking this just is not true.

    * just wanted to toss this in there: I don't remember if the last cooler did this, but in Cosrsair Link-the pump RPMs bounce around from 2790 to 2850 RPMS on a regular basis... they are hardly stable at all. Is that normal?
    Reply to glytch5
  39. Yes. Your psu can only change what it's given. Your household voltage has small fluctuations, so it'll pass through to the psu, your 12vDC isn't pure 12v. It'll flip 11.9x to 12.0x etc. Being as the pump responds to input voltage, those fluctuations translate to slight rpm changes. Your fans do it too. There's no worries on most motherboard circuitry, that all runs through various chokes, the voltage regulatory circuitry etc, and kills any errant voltages that'll disrupt stability, that's part of what's included in things like LLC and why ppl push for excellence in a psu, ripple control. If you notice, the rpm is usually notated as 2800±10% etc as are fans. My kraken goes 1 step further, as demand for cooling drops off, so do the rpms, they see fluctuations just like the fan at temps.
    Reply to Karadjgne
  40. Ah okay. Good to know that is normal!
    I have a EVGA G2 in here... but I guess she still ripples a bit.
    Bothers me that corsair link says my memory is running at 1600, yet my bios says 3200. this link software is kinda strange... I don't much like it!
    Hey man I think for now that concludes my on the Ryzen cooler thing! you saved me a lot of time. THANKS PAL!
    -May I PM you sometime if I have something going on?
    Reply to glytch5
  41. You can, but since 95% of my time is spent on mobile, I very seldom check pm's, so your chances of a timely answer are pretty slim. Best bet would be to just drop a new thread, I might even see it, but there's plenty of ppl who can help.

    GL and enjoy :D
    Reply to Karadjgne
  42. I simply fit the noctua dh15 (not the dh15s) with one fan in the middle, and the second fan zip tied at the front of the case blowing towards the cpu cooler, still looking into how to fit both fans without the ram beeing in the way
    Reply to oppsaer1337
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