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looking for water cooling for corsair 460x case (400c) or best air cooler.

ive never done water cooling.
temps are peaking 90s and want to drop it down to continue overclocking.
currently running be quiet shadow rock slim (mind i have the ripjaws v ddr4 raised heat sinks and may not have clearance for all coolers) i may be getting new ddr4, most likely corsairs led's 2x8s that could change clearance issue
the noctua nh-d15 seems 'cool' but will have to look into clearance.
any other extreme air coolers?
and generally speaking what would be the temp difference between h100i v2 versus air cooler at same price point?


anyone here have the 460x case that has installed the radiator up on top?
if not.. would mounting in front and recirculating the exhaust inside be a big draw back?

my case fan set up:
3 exhaust: 1 rear, 2 top
3 intake: 3 front

psu not affected as its in a shroud, draws from bottom and exhausts back

shot of case: http://imgur.com/a/Lyckf
zoom: http://imgur.com/a/RaLEO


**UPDATE: I've looked into Corsair's H100i v2 and after a review made from a customer.. it doesnt look good. also convinced its very loud at high fan speed. Radiator depth 30mm

also have a few that caught my eye but at this point i wouldnt know until someone tells me how it worked for them...

Thermaltake 3.0 CL-W107-PL12SW-A 2x120s radiator depth 27mm

and at the moment im looking at Swiftech H220 x2 with radiator depth of 28mm.
47 answers Last reply Best Answer
More about water cooling corsair 460x case 400c air cooler
  1. The Noctua NH-D15 performs similar to 240mm radiator coolers, and for a lower/similar price, and obviously no risk in killing your GPU etc with it being an air cooler. Your case allows a CPU cooler of 170mm height, and the NH-D15 is 165mm, so you have the room to install that cooler inside your case.
  2. still need help..
    are there any brackets that could allow different mounting holes for radiator+fan?
    it looks like a very tight fit against the ram...just need a small shift away from the mobo and its good..
  3. L0stChild said:
    still need help..
    are there any brackets that could allow different mounting holes for radiator+fan?
    it looks like a very tight fit against the ram...just need a small shift away from the mobo and its good..


    Do you mean above the RAM?

    If so, then unless your RAM is low profile then it may cause issues.

    If you want a 240mm Water cooling system, then there's the NZXT Kraken x61 that is a highly recommended one, but obviously it is prone to leak.
  4. If you going liquid, don't expect it to be cheap.
    it is something like https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xlc-predator-240 to beat the top air coolers in thermals and acoustics at the same time.
  5. xFeaRDom said:
    L0stChild said:
    still need help..
    are there any brackets that could allow different mounting holes for radiator+fan?
    it looks like a very tight fit against the ram...just need a small shift away from the mobo and its good..


    Do you mean above the RAM?

    If so, then unless your RAM is low profile then it may cause issues.

    If you want a 240mm Water cooling system, then there's the NZXT Kraken x61 that is a highly recommended one, but obviously it is prone to leak.


    yeah it'll hit the tapered part of the ram heatsink.
    so im looking down from the top of the case and lining up the edge of the fan ..its able to clear the end of the ram but not the top where it tapers.. its just so close.. just a few mm
  6. n0ns3ns3 said:
    If you going liquid, don't expect it to be cheap.
    it is something like https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xlc-predator-240 to beat the top air coolers in thermals and acoustics at the same time.


    no im not expecting it to be cheap.
    ive budget around $200 for something that will cool 10c lower.

    as for the one u link.. theres no way to fit it unless i have a modular mounting piece.. if it exists lol
  7. xFeaRDom said:
    The Noctua NH-D15 performs similar to 240mm radiator coolers, and for a lower/similar price, and obviously no risk in killing your GPU etc with it being an air cooler. Your case allows a CPU cooler of 170mm height, and the NH-D15 is 165mm, so you have the room to install that cooler inside your case.



    yeah im still considering air coolers. are there other coolers in that range?
  8. L0stChild said:
    xFeaRDom said:
    The Noctua NH-D15 performs similar to 240mm radiator coolers, and for a lower/similar price, and obviously no risk in killing your GPU etc with it being an air cooler. Your case allows a CPU cooler of 170mm height, and the NH-D15 is 165mm, so you have the room to install that cooler inside your case.



    yeah im still considering air coolers. are there other coolers in that range?


    Not in that range, but some that are half the price and almost similar on performance, probably a few degrees higher than the noctua. Such as the Cryorig H7 (And other similar ones) and the Hyper 212 etc.
  9. xFeaRDom said:
    L0stChild said:
    xFeaRDom said:
    The Noctua NH-D15 performs similar to 240mm radiator coolers, and for a lower/similar price, and obviously no risk in killing your GPU etc with it being an air cooler. Your case allows a CPU cooler of 170mm height, and the NH-D15 is 165mm, so you have the room to install that cooler inside your case.



    yeah im still considering air coolers. are there other coolers in that range?


    Not in that range, but some that are half the price and almost similar on performance, probably a few degrees higher than the noctua. Such as the Cryorig H7 (And other similar ones) and the Hyper 212 etc.



    hmm so is the d15 absolute best aircooler available?
  10. it supposed to fit on top no problem.
    in front, it's a bit of a problem with long GPU like you have.
    to get 10C cooler than what ?
    in order to have it, you need advanced setup and probably delid your CPU and apply liquid metal instead of crap used by intel in 4th gen.
  11. n0ns3ns3 said:
    it supposed to fit on top no problem.
    in front, it's a bit of a problem with long GPU like you have.
    to get 10C cooler than what ?
    in order to have it, you need advanced setup and probably delid your CPU and apply liquid metal instead of crap used by intel in 4th gen.


    yeah ud figured the manufacturer who makes ram and aio would make a case that compliments their own..
    this is where ROG has it right. but anyways i got no clue what the coolers look like and how they are setup to be fastened .
    i planned to get the vengeance leds but thats not gonna work without shifting the rad to the side
  12. not sure if i should make a new topic but im looking at Swiftech's H220 x2.. anyone have comments on this?
    ....

    ok so this is one of the reviews made from a customer:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QepxAj4oOHU
    has ballistix sport looks like 30mm tall..
  13. OK I think I may have a way to make room.
    ive measured and should be safe for 280mm/130mm/70+mm
    Im hoping it would be ok to mount it this way..
    im leaning towards the swiftech h220 x2
    now theres the h220 x2 prestige that comes with better fittings and in chrome and fan upgrade. price difference $90 CAD not sure if thats worth getting..
    im havent made up my mind yet but ive basically chosen this because it can be expanded or modified.
    any comments will be great!

    I've circled the new mount:
    http://imgur.com/a/lYT5z
  14. Best answer
    Swiftech H220 is great. The only downside is the pump+res mount that prevent mounting fans on other/both sides. May also be a problem with clearance.
    Ooh, and the cables.
    While H220 being top performer, IMHO the EK Predator is more convenient and elegant. But it is 295mm long.
    You can also have a look at Alphacool. They are also customizeable and expandable. (Or Fractal Design Kelvin also made by Alphacool if you can find them in NA).
  15. n0ns3ns3 said:
    Swiftech H220 is great. The only downside is the pump+res mount that prevent mounting fans on other/both sides. May also be a problem with clearance.
    Ooh, and the cables.
    While H220 being top performer, IMHO the EK Predator is more convenient and elegant. But it is 295mm long.
    You can also have a look at Alphacool. They are also customizeable and expandable. (Or Fractal Design Kelvin also made by Alphacool if you can find them in NA).


    yea i noticed that the fan and rad comes out of the box assembled.umm how much of an increase in temperature drop would it be with push/pull on that specific radiator? if i remember right its a 14FPI. Also, and this is just my thought from all the researching, with a push/pull config you could run lower fan speed and still have maintain cooling performance with the benefit of lower acoustics?
    as for the Predator.. im gonna have to say.. it doesnt look appealing to me. but i made note of the fans, for now im going with my corsair RGB's =)

    ill take a look at alphacool. .but if u have a specific model thatll be great.
    if theres anything else i should know or think about let me know.
    i might actually pick it up tomorrow
    ill need to watch some videos about water cooling but i assume these kits are ready to plug and forget
  16. this is alphacool: http://www.alphacool.com/shop/sets-und-systems/eisbaer/20225/alphacool-eisbaer-240-cpu-black (you can switch to EN on top right).
    Honestly, corsair's fans are crap (not sure about new ML) :) there are two fans that do the job:
    1. Noctua NF-F NF-P
    2. Gentle typhoon
    The push/pull is seriously overrated. while it can lower the temp by 1-3C and can allow to run the fans slower, you don't need it.
    here is an example: https://goo.gl/photos/MTocJ3iSQnsbivgQ7
    overclocked i7-4470K + overclocked GTX 1070 (with power mod) = ~350watt under stress load. A couple of NF-P12 at up to 1350RPM are doing the job.
    During gaming, they are around 950-1000RPM which is very quite and inaudible. the temps are ~50C for CPU and ~40C for GPU under gaming.
    At idle/desktop, fans around 750-800RPM and are inaudible at all. and the temps are close to ambient.
    And note that all this in mini ITX case.
  17. Ha well the fans I already have and they are RGB, if they dont as good as i wanted then ill address it then.
    So what is it about corsairs fans that make them crap?
    the sp120 specs:
    Airflow
    52 CFM
    Static Pressure
    1.45 mmH20
    Sound Level
    26 dBA
    Speed
    1400 +/- 10%

    yeah from the looks of it.. those numbers are average considering the db's
    i have a question though.
    when im at the store.. is there anything i should get to prep?
    also.. i havent decided on the color i want in it. initially i wanted a uv glow. but maybe i should wait after its installed to get a better picture.. i do have quite a bit of RGBs.

    the more i think about the idea of water cooling the more i want to actually pick out the parts myself and build it lol
  18. The "crap" does not mean they are bad. They are just not the best. They are very aggressively marketed and thus overrated by many people.
    I have a couple of SP120 fans at home and my conclusions of comparing them with Noctua NF-P12 (NF-F12 do about the same job) are:
    1. Noctua runs much quieter at same RPM
    2. Noctua move more air/provide lower temps at the same RPM
    3. Noctua last longer
    They also consume less power but who cares.
    The advantages of Corsair's fans are: they look better.
    I'm not really into "color" things. Performance is always a priority over look. I'd get a separate LED/RGB/UV strips. Fans are supposed to move air not be shinny/glowing thing :)
    Also, as you can guess, I'm all in for custom liquid cooling loops :)
    And I'm sorry, but I did not understand your "in store" question.
  19. With the pump in the kit, how much more tubing and reservoir can I add to the loop?
  20. which kit ?
  21. H220 x2
  22. it's not a kit. It's AiO :) it comes pre-assembled and pre-filled.
    you just screw it to the top of the case, mount the CPU block and connect the cables.
    tubes are more than long enough,
  23. yeah i know its aio
    i just wanna know how much extra things i can do with it
    iono why the price difference for the regular x2 and the prestige is $90 lol
    the lok fittings :http://www.ncix.com/detail/swiftech-3-8in-x-1-2in-lok-seal-9c-101958.htm?promoid=1294
    whats the difference in the fittings?
    i might order this since its only 5bux.
    im thinking of doing some hard tube esthetics rather than using the included tube in the 'AIO'
    is there a list i should follow?
    or just get the best fittings and tubes? also need a bending kit i suppose
  24. prestige come with different fans, different fittings (barbs are cheaper than compression) it also comes with PWM fan hub.
    IMHO, not worth the 90. I'd get the cheapest between them.
  25. holy crap i just confused the crap outta myself trying to find fittings n tubing and wahhh
    lol

    ok i should keep it simple. i was just tryin to see what fittings i can get.. these inner and outta diameter specs.. confuses me when they have it backwards.
    so get the regular h220 x2 not the prestige.
    and u say it doesnt come with the pwm fan hub..
    i looked at the swiftech site and this is in the contents:
    PWM Ports 4
    RPM signal port Channel 1
    ALED connectors 3
    2 pin connector 1
    Power connector SATA
    PWM/RPM connector Mini 4-pin
    Installation hardware Peel-off sticker, mounting screws & nuts
    ROHS Compliant

    thats the hub right? cuz without that im screwed.. im using all 4+1 headers already

    help me if u could.. im thinkin of changing the tubes and possibly fittings. crap now i see compression fittings for soft tubes..are there different compression fittings for soft and hard tubes?
    if im to modify the tubing and fittings.. Am I looking at 3/8, 5/8 parts like:
    http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=72219
    http://www.ncix.com/detail/primochill-c-58-bg-uv-bright-green-15-73554.htm
  26. no, it comes with the spliter at least to connect the fans to one header.
    the hub is like 10$ on amazon
  27. ok so whats the difference?. also i need to use the splitter for led.. i heard some goof blew the leds when he plugged in pwm into mobo header hehe
  28. i just picked up the h220 x2!
    will be installing shortly so excited
  29. share results and pics :)
  30. Oh my friggin God lol
    So here's the story..
    Had about 30 mins to install and I had everything planned out so I could mount my corsair fans and rad somehow. That was the hardest part. Everything is in and doubled checked. I had doubts about this hub thing... I was confident everything is good so I powered up.. crap the temp is going 60 70 80 90 omg lol. Shut that down and went to work and now I just figured out why nothing worked... I forgot to plug in the data power connector lol. I thought I messed up the hub thing cuz that was my initial thought. Oh man lol. Well I know my PC still works. Shouldn't have a problem when I get home lol oh man for an hour I was like. Man do I have to re-re and rma.......
  31. http://imgur.com/a/6u3HI
    http://imgur.com/a/thtJ2

    Ill update more in a few hrs !
    Wonder where I can get some UV/neon type dyes
  32. Okay! so i got it running properly now..
    I still have to figure out the fan input since the corsairs arent pwm i should be able to connect to another header and use my own fan curve.. otherwise they be running at 100% full time

    right now doing some testing and im getting shocking results
    currently running 4.6ghz steady at 53c... =O
    first off.. my 4th core isnt gimped anymore.. usually it rage quits and stops working.. but its still running!
    doing 4.6ghz and stepping up
    also streaming it if anyone wants to check out the numbers.. lostchildeh on twitch
  33. well, the results are very good.
    the system looks cool. If you want to add colors to liquid, I love Mayhems. They probably make the best liquid for cooling.
    Check pastel colors with some UV it looks awesome.
    When you are ready to get adventurous, you can replace the tubes with hard line (PETG/acrylic/glass). Glass looking particularly awesome. Also does not get scratched or clouded over time.
  34. =)
    ive been running on 4.7ghz playing different games and stuff.. looks like im straight.
    now doing 4.8 4.9ghz
    im doing some benchmarks n tests... im noticing is my screen flips into black for a second then back to screen quite often. i gave the voltage a tick and seems to correct it.. not sure though just repeating the same tests n see if it goes away..
    its more or less a random thing but only when im putting a load on.
    right my max is 69c im up to 1.36v
    yea as for colors, the AIO kit came with red yellow and blue..
    i like blue in general but my components have more of a red/white theme to it.
    but yeah i like the bright green too. im actually just going through color phases with my rgbs and see which one i like.. hehe RGB!
    as for the hard tube, yeah i was pretty much ready for it before i bought this. i also figured out that ill need to swap out my barbs for compression fittings. the guys at ncix.. lol i think i knew more than the 2 guys i talked to hehe.
    oh btw.. before i got everything going. i noticed a few small white blotches in the tubes.. in both tubes. the ones in the fresh tube (not sure the term but its the tube after the pump) got pushed out as soon as i turned it on.. the ones in the old tube is still hanging around..i count 3 of em. and i want them out lol
    yeah i have so many ideas but i have to check out some sites to see what goodies i can get. i sorta want to make a two tone double helix sorta thing.
    lol right now im clocking at 4.9ghz its idle but the temp is at 26c epic
  35. Not sure what do you mean by blotches. Could it be small air bubbles? if that's the case, it's totally normal.
    no need for compression fittings. barbs are fine. was using them for a decade in my old system and still have couple of them (they are much more convenient to connect in tight spaces)
  36. em blotches like... sorta looks like mold bits about the size of one molex hole..
    its not moving either .. just suspended or stuck to the tubes
    so i took a few pics of different solid colors
    RGBP : http://imgur.com/LYAptq6
    i gotta learn how to post the pic in the thread lol
  37. I like the purple.
    BTW, i wouldn't recommend using red dyes. The are worst in terms of residue and staining
  38. n0ns3ns3 said:
    I like the purple.
    BTW, i wouldn't recommend using red dyes. The are worst in terms of residue and staining


    oh yeah thx for the info.
    i didnt really want red. just looks awkward in tubes i think. sorta gloomy
    are there special fluids to make a pearl type color? like a whitish blue pearl?
    or maybe tubing that is translucent that is coated outside with pearl
  39. told ya, mayhem :)
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZM_iL6DhmlY
    but this is not recommended for everyday use. it's more of a showroom.
  40. n0ns3ns3 said:
    told ya, mayhem :)
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZM_iL6DhmlY
    but this is not recommended for everyday use. it's more of a showroom.


    =O I want !
    what are the draw backs on special coolant like that?
    do they break down a lot quicker (short life)?
    or they not good for coolant purposes?

    oh got a random question. Im setting my fan curves and the idea im getting is to find a sweet spot with minimal speed(quietness) but keep the cooling performance, i guess u can call it eliminating diminishing returns..But for the pump what should i do? just wondering if theres any risk running the fans too low or too high steadily. I've calibrated all my fans so i know the min-max rpms for them which makes it easy to set curves. The pump ranges from 1200-3000rpm should i bother to keep it low ?

    and btw thanks for stickin around, saves me from freaking out at things i got zero clue about lol
  41. That coolant has very short lifespan.
    Regarding pump speed - for such a small loop without many bends/90, i don't think you need over 2500 under load. After getting about gallon/min it's kinda no difference.
    when you going to change the liquid, get a piece of tube (long enough that the both open ends will be far enough from computer to avoid spills) and put the inlet gallon jar of distilled water and see ho much time it takes to empty that jar. the downside of PWM pump is that you have to have your system running to control the speed.
  42. err ok not sure if i should freak out but i think i should....
    this just happened a few mins ago..

    Cooling pump fan stopped turning.
    I tapped the housing with my finger and its fine now.....

    The story:
    I was testing 4.9ghz from bios and was having bsod on windows lock screen/after punching in my passcodeword =)
    after a few tries i ended up locking my pc where it wouldnt boot.. (lights on power up then shuts off, cycles over and over)
    so i dc power cable and reset cmos.my mobo has a quick cmos clear button next to the debug display and i would have to go reach below and up around the reservoir and may have knocked it ?
    not sure if this is a freak accident where the fan decided not to spin.. which is not a good sign anyways.. or i did something to freeze the fan when it did the powerup/powerdown cycle..
    .. i didnt even notice the pump wassnt on till after i saw windows shutting down by itself then i saw the temps in bios..
    i didnt think of looking at the temps after resetting cmos cuz i just ran default settings to get back into windows.
    what you guys think?
    im starting to not trust my cooling system..

    oh and btw i had my pc shut down automatically after hitting 85c so pretty sure i didnt run past 100c
    ive now set the balloon at 70c and shut down at 75c

    very unlikely to hit 70 as ive only hit 70s doing prime95 at 1.365volts
  43. i'm not sure what is "cooling pump fan", I assume you are talking about the pump.
    The pump is usually connected to CPU fan header. If the pump is not spinning - something wrong with fan header or something wrong with the pump.
    1. check that the pump is properly connected.
    2. check that the header is set (in bios) to control pump with PWM
    3. if it continue to happen, try other fan header
    4. if it still happens - RMA the kit.
    All of the above is while I know that tapping helped.
  44. n0ns3ns3 said:
    i'm not sure what is "cooling pump fan", I assume you are talking about the pump.
    The pump is usually connected to CPU fan header. If the pump is not spinning - something wrong with fan header or something wrong with the pump.
    1. check that the pump is properly connected.
    2. check that the header is set (in bios) to control pump with PWM
    3. if it continue to happen, try other fan header
    4. if it still happens - RMA the kit.
    All of the above is while I know that tapping helped.



    the fan in the pump.. well i guess u can call it a turbine . w.e. it is.. yeah its the first time this happened.
    i found it weird because the lights were on.. i made a mistake once where it wassnt plugged in at all and no lights came on so i knew it was the fan inside. i gave it a tap right when i hit the power and then it start to move.
    well the fact that it moved when i tapped should mean im good with the connections, ive been using this setup since i installed it.. think it got jammed somehow, maybe the on/off caused a back pressure and pulled the fan back enough to lock it. beats me. but yeah if it happens again.. thats a pattern and thats a sign to take that out asap!
    oh btw yeah i used the uv green and uv blue dyes that came with the AIO.. cant really see it since its all diluted lol but yeah after i relocate my gpu ill start thinking about retubing it
  45. it's called impeller :)
    The reason could be that it didn't get "enough power to start". make sure that it set to at least 50% in the fan header setting.
  46. n0ns3ns3 said:
    it's called impeller :)
    The reason could be that it didn't get "enough power to start". make sure that it set to at least 50% in the fan header setting.


    impeller.. yeah i said turbine didnt i lol turbo boost!
    ok ill double check maybe when i ran default settings, it was less. thing is im pretty sure ive gone to default settings before and the impeller was fine.
    but just curious.. before pumps die.. do they gradually die or in one instance?
  47. as with all electro-mechanical components could be any.
    in case of mechanical failure it usually starts with annoying noise.
    in case of electric failure - it usually just dies.
    anyway, set your system to shutdown if the pump RPM = 0.
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