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PC Freezing/Crashing While Playing Games

Built my PC about a year and a half ago (bought from iBP) and have since replaced the PSU, all stock fans and the RAM. Been playing Overwatch/Borderland Pre-Sequel recently and I can only play for about 5-10 minutes on each one before the computer crashes. Temperatures are stable hovering at around 60 degrees c at the time of the crashes. The activity on the GPU and CPU seem fine (from what Speedfan and AMD Radeon are telling me). I've no idea what can be causing this. I've ran into this problem before but it only started getting bad again about two days ago, with about two months since the last major occurrences. (I also run Chrome with YouTube open while playing Pre-Sequel.) I also got an IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL error while playing Pre-Sequel.

Specs:

Operating System
Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
CPU
AMD FX-9590
Vishera 32nm Technology
RAM
16.0GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 669MHz (9-9-9-24)
Motherboard
Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. 990FXA-UD3 (CPU 1)
Graphics
S24E510C (1920x1080@60Hz)
HP 2159 (1920x1080@60Hz)
2048MB ATI AMD Radeon R9 200 Series (C.P. Technology)
Storage
74GB INTEL SSDSA2M080G2GC SATA Disk Device (SSD)
931GB Western Digital WDC WD10EZEX-75M2NA0 SATA Disk Device (SATA)
Optical Drives
HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH24NSC0 SATA CdRom Device
PSU
Corsair RM1000 (1000 watt)
61 answers Last reply Best Answer
More about freezing crashing playing games
  1. The IRQL... is generally driver related. I have minimal patience, so when I came across that in a secondary rig, I simply reinstalled the OS.

    Realistically though, you can remove/reinstall drivers. You can use DDU to simplify the process. http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html

    I'd start removing any display drivers, reboot & reinstall the latest drivers from AMD's site
  2. I've just reinstalled my mobo drivers, will do graphics now I guess.
  3. Hope it's software. Backlevel your video card driver to a driver older than the day you started seeing problems. See if things stabilize. If not re download and re-install a fresh copy of the current win10 video driver from amd.

    Assume not. Guess its the GPU and do a big underclock -- maybe 20% or more for G{U and Video Memory. You can do this from AMD overdrive, or from your favorite OC'ing tool. See if this takes you from "play for about 5-10 minutes" to no problems. If so suspect the video card. Physically remove it. Blow compressed air ($5 to $10 per can on amazon) into the x16 PCI slot and all over the card. Maybe a part that does not have a temp sensor was getting hot (vrm ?). Remove and re-insert the 6-pin power cable. Reinsert Card. Hope for the best. Sometimes card is not stable because of corrosion on pins, reinserting it fixes that.

    If underclocking the card does not help assume some other software problem. Build a new win10 system on a spare drive. See if it has a problem.

    GL
  4. http://imgur.com/LGwCgrk,ID2sKDW after underclocking GPU clock from 955 MHz to 800 and Memory clock from 1400 to 1100 and installing 100% fresh drivers, it still froze after about 5 minutes. Should I also underclock the CPU? Or could it be RAM maybe?
  5. Could be ram. Usual test for that is to use stock timings (not XMP or custom), pull one dimm, and run with just the other dimm. Whether or not that works, swap to just the other dimm then to both dimm again. If after a few swap the problem only happens with one dimm then the dimm is likely bad. The multiple swap is both to get more fail data and to re-seat the dimm in the MB.

    You don't normally see CPUs fail unless they have been hit with OC'ing voltage on the high end, but parts do fail. You can try underclocking the CPU also. I'd try memory first. How hard have you been pushing the FX-9590? That CPU uses an awesome amount of power even w/o OC'ing. 220W ? Note: if underclocking the CPU helps then it's likely the MB, CPU or PSU. MB voltage regulators would be working hard to give the 200 amps you need (this is almost jump starting car battery amperage)

    Checking the MB, the REV4 specs support the 220W from the CPU socket, but rev 1 does not. Any idea what rev your board is ? (Pulling too much power could have hurt the MB over long term. Testing the MB is a pain - the only way I know is a MB swap).

    Does you PC fail (lock) only during gaming? Or will it lock up just sitting there ?

    Do you think the PC will lock if you run a benchmark suite instead of a game? http://www.3dmark.com/ (That takes some but not all software out of the test)

    PSU could cause this also, but that is a really really good PSU and it is loafing in your system. Test would be a swap to another PSU and see if the system still hangs.
  6. Mobo = rev 4.0, the CPU is stock, I haven't touched it via. OC. It's sitting at 4.7 GHz right now. It could be ram, I'll try that after I benchmark. I'll ask my dad if I can swap with his PSU to test, but I'm 99% sure it's not the PSU, that thing is brand new, got it like a month ago. It only locks up while playing games. And only some games, like Rainbow 6 Siege, Borderlands: Pre-Sequel, Overwatch, Rust at ultra, etc.
  7. Ran Firestrike than Sky Diver back to back, GPU never exceeded 59 degrees, CPU never exceeded 54, heres the results if you're curious or need them: Skydiver: https://gyazo.com/3b9f005f1aeca61b8fa1ff1cbd81597d Firestrike: https://gyazo.com/5be66a9abc27b699e4bc6dccc7bccd45
    Firestrike was for high tier builds, Skydiver for mid tier. I'll run my game now, if it crashes, I'll test the RAM.
  8. RAM was clean unless it's both sticks, tested one at a time.
  9. WigglesR said:
    RAM was clean unless it's both sticks, tested one at a time.


    Meaning you got the same fail with each stick ? Bummer, replacing memory is easy.

    Not all parts in a PC have a temp probe. If you look at infrared photos of video cards often the VRM is the hottest spot, not the GPU. And VRMs are not typically monitored. At 200W the VRMs on your motherboard must have a meaty heatsink or a fan. They are likely hotter than the CPU. But they should be OK.

    Did you try any software games to see if something in your current software stack is killing you ? (fresh win10 build on spare drive? then load video drivers and games and see if it hangs)

    The IRQ problem points to drivers or bad hardware. Maybe reload your audio and chipset drivers from your MB? Get a fresh copy off Gigabytes web site.

    If we can't find a way to isolate this we fall into "replace and hope". That how you get drawers full of spare parts.

    Any chance of swapping in another video card to see if the cards is bad ? (The underclock test is not perfect), it could still be the card ? This would be the first piece I'd replace if we don't find a way to isolate.
  10. WigglesR said:
    Ran Firestrike than Sky Diver back to back, GPU never exceeded 59 degrees, CPU never exceeded 54, heres the results if you're curious or need them: Skydiver: https://gyazo.com/3b9f005f1aeca61b8fa1ff1cbd81597d Firestrike: https://gyazo.com/5be66a9abc27b699e4bc6dccc7bccd45
    Firestrike was for high tier builds, Skydiver for mid tier. I'll run my game now, if it crashes, I'll test the RAM.


    Missed this. So 3D benchmarks do not fail --> that points to a problem in the software stack, not hardware.
  11. I could switch out the GPU with my dads, we did that last time my computer was having this problem, it did nothing. I already reloaded all of my drivers yesterday, including graphics. This is a fairly new copy of W10, like 4/5 weeks or so old. Should I try reloading Windows?
  12. What CPU cooler and the model # of the DRAM?
  13. CPU cooler = Asetek 550LC Liquid CPU Cooling System
    RAM = Ballistix Tactical

    *Edit, RAM is a month old, CPU cooler is about a year and a half old.
  14. Do you have the latest BIOS and mobo drivers?
  15. Yep,
  16. Might run the system file checker, go to command prompt as ADMIN and run the command SFC /SCANNOW
  17. WigglesR said:
    I could switch out the GPU with my dads, we did that last time my computer was having this problem, it did nothing. I already reloaded all of my drivers yesterday, including graphics. This is a fairly new copy of W10, like 4/5 weeks or so old. Should I try reloading Windows?


    IF you can reload all the data you have on your current windows, then YES, do a format down, clean install of win10. If that fails then we don't worry about partial installs or un-installs that left debris that causes win to fail.
  18. Result of SFC:

    Microsoft Windows [Version 10.0.10586]
    (c) 2015 Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved.

    C:\WINDOWS\system32>SFC /SCANNOW

    Beginning system scan. This process will take some time.

    Beginning verification phase of system scan.
    Verification 100% complete.

    Windows Resource Protection found corrupt files and successfully repaired
    them. Details are included in the CBS.Log windir\Logs\CBS\CBS.log. For
    example C:\Windows\Logs\CBS\CBS.log. Note that logging is currently not
    supported in offline servicing scenarios.

    C:\WINDOWS\system32>


    I'll run the game and see if that helped, if not, full OS reset.
  19. WigglesR said:
    http://imgur.com/LGwCgrk,ID2sKDW after underclocking GPU clock from 955 MHz to 800 and Memory clock from 1400 to 1100 and installing 100% fresh drivers, it still froze after about 5 minutes. Should I also underclock the CPU? Or could it be RAM maybe?


    As per your PM. So you installed fresh drivers, BUT, DID you run the Display driver uninstaller and do a full removal of all driver and registry settings using the DDU before you installed the drivers? If you didn't, I would do so.

    If you DID, then I'd probably opt for a clean install of windows to eliminate anything on the system from past transgressions or infections being a possible culprit. I'd also listen to Tradesman, he knows his business.

    If the problem was happening before, and returned, then something is persistent. You've changed RAM, so I'm assuming there was a problem with the old RAM or you upgraded to a higher quantity. Sticks fail. Boards fail too.

    Could be your board has an issue due to the 9xxx series configuration and voltage. Might try reducing voltage and multiplier by a step or two.

    I don't see your cooler listed in your specs. What is it? If you mentioned it elsewhere in the thread I apologize but a brief scan didn't show me any mention of it.

    I'd do the clean install first, to eliminate that as a potential issue, and then move forward with troubleshooting hardware if the problem still persists.

    http://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/1950-windows-10-clean-install.html


    Be sure to follow the instructions EXACTLY, and do a CLEAN install, not just a reinstall or refresh.
  20. Asetek 550LC Liquid CPU Cooling System, I'll clean reinstall, yes I used DDU to uninstall.
  21. How long has that cooler been installed and did you have any issues prior to installing it or only after installing it? What is your case airflow configuration like? CPU could be cool and VRMs or other components NOT be, and create problems. VERY common with FX 9xxx series configurations due to the high power requirements. UD3 is a fairly good board, but the 9xxx series chips are problematic even with Crosshair and other top of the line boards. There are only a couple of boards that I've never seen any issues at ALL on, when using 9xxx series chips. Anyhow, yes, do the clean install, install the manufacturer motherboard drivers, install the GPU card drivers fresh and see what happens.
  22. It was installed at an iBUYPOWER facility in late April of 2015.

    *EDIT, I've reinstalled it with new thermal paste about a month ago.
  23. http://m.imgur.com/ubHdu0u
    Top fan is blowing in and the 2 side fans are blowing out.
  24. That's totally wrong. No offense. 99% of cooling schemes should look like this, excepting units with top mounted power supplies and a handful of liquid cooled configurations with top mounted radiators, which you clearly don't have.




    Front, side and bottom fans should be intake, blowing INTO the case. Top and rear fans should be exhaust, blowing out. With a top fan blowing in, all you are really doing is recirculating the hot air that naturally rises to the top, back towards your components. I'd switch your side fans to intake, switch the top fan to exhaust and move it to the location towards the rear (Maybe even install another up there as an additional exhaust, make sure your rear fan is set to exhaust, and if you don't have any front intake fans, you seriously need to get and install some, or at least one. Otherwise you have will have a hot air eddy/pocket in the front half of the case.

    You may even be overheating the VRMs and RAM with that configuration. Or at the very least, not cooling them well. On the majority of non-overclocked systems, this might not be AS crucial, but with a heat miser 9xxx series machine, cooling is paramount, especially for the motherboard and other components that don't have their own coolers, especially on a liquid cooled system that doesn't give anything the residual airflow an air CPU cooler does.
  25. I also find it intriguing that you're able to maintain temperatures below TJmax on a 9xxx series system that's using a single width radiator in an exhaust configuration. People with high end air and big water coolers have trouble, even when their case cooling is top notch.
  26. darkbreeze said:
    That's totally wrong. No offense. 99% of cooling schemes should look like this, excepting units with top mounted power supplies and a handful of liquid cooled configurations with top mounted radiators, which you clearly don't have.




    Front, side and bottom fans should be intake, blowing INTO the case. Top and rear fans should be exhaust, blowing out. With a top fan blowing in, all you are really doing is recirculating the hot air that naturally rises to the top, back towards your components. I'd switch your side fans to intake, switch the top fan to exhaust and move it to the location towards the rear (Maybe even install another up there as an additional exhaust, make sure your rear fan is set to exhaust, and if you don't have any front intake fans, you seriously need to get and install some, or at least one. Otherwise you have will have a hot air eddy/pocket in the front half of the case.

    You may even be overheating the VRMs and RAM with that configuration. Or at the very least, not cooling them well. On the majority of non-overclocked systems, this might not be AS crucial, but with a heat miser 9xxx series machine, cooling is paramount, especially for the motherboard and other components that don't have their own coolers, especially on a liquid cooled system that doesn't give anything the residual airflow an air CPU cooler does.


    Got it wrong, top IS outtake. Back is intake.
  27. Clean install did nothing.
  28. Rear cannot be an intake. It must be an exhaust. Same as the top. Turn the fan around if you are sure the rear fan is bringing air into the case through the radiator rather than taking air through the radiator and out the back. As I said, front, side and bottom fans should all be intake. Top and rear fans should always be exhaust, except in cases where you have a top mounted radiator configured as an intake, which I don't recommend anyhow but some people do.

    The better method would be to mount your radiator in front, if it will reach, as an intake, mount a new fan in the rear as an exhaust, turn your side fans into intake fans and mount at least one, or preferably two, exhaust fans up top.
  29. Download Seatools for Windows. Run the short drive self test (DST) and long generic on ALL connected drives.

    Download and run Memtest86.
  30. darkbreeze said:
    Download Seatools for Windows. Run the short drive self test (DST) and long generic on ALL connected drives.

    Download and run Memtest86.


    He already swapped out both dimms, PC still failed after 5 mins. Don't think memtest will help.

    Thinking Video card swap, then MB.
  31. That little small SSD in there is probably old and crappy. But I agree that it's looking more and more like a GPU card issue. Maybe motherboard. When I see 74GB SSD, and it's not a laptop, it usually means very old or very cheap.
  32. It's 5 years old at least, haha, will run memtest just incase and SeaTools, though I'm no longer using the SSD since the clean install wouldn't let me dl windows on it, will also do your fan thing. I also have the option of swapping GPU's for a test.
  33. Both drives passed.
  34. Can you explain to me the fan thing? It all confuses me, lol, like referencing use up, down, left, right.
  35. Memtest is running right now, RAM is fine.
  36. This is my case btw, if you could explain to me where to set up the fans on this case, that'd me great, AZZA EOS 209 Gaming Case - Black (img: https://static-cdn.jtvnw.net/jtv_user_pictures/panel-41135567-image-06943e1103e5be2e-320.jpeg )
  37. So what do you not understand about the fans?

    It's pretty simply really. Front fans are generally intake because the hottest components are towards the rear of the case. It doesn't make sense to bring air IN at an area where the most heat is. That's where you want to take air OUT at, so it doesn't stay in the case any longer than necessary and doesn't have the chance to transfer it's heat to the air around other components.

    Cooler air tends to be closer to the floor/ground, so the lower the fan is, the cooler the air it brings in will be, which is why power supplies were moved to the bottom of the case and the intake on them was flipped to draw cool outside air in rather than using the already heated air inside the case like top mounted power supplies/cases used to do.

    Side fans have the unique benefit of being able to bring cool outside air directly in on top of the CPU, GPU card and motherboard, which is a nice feature on systems that have thermal issues or few fan locations, especially if there are only one or two front fans or a lot of obstructions.

    I think you'd also benefit greatly from doing some cable management and getting the cabling inside your case all tidied up and tied away from interfering with the flow of air. You'd be surprised how much that can affect component cooling, especially RAM and motherboard components.

    Heat rises, always, so fans at the top of the case should naturally be exhaust fans, drawing all that heated air out of the case, making room for cooler air brought in by the intake fans at the front, sides or bottom of the case.

    Rear fan should always be exhaust and there are no exceptions to this that I'm aware of. Even the oldest of case designs utilize this method. That rear location is almost directly responsible from removing heated air displaced by the CPU cooler if an air cooler is being employed or drawing heated air away from the motherboard VRMs so cool air can flow over them. It also helps to form a diagonal-ish airflow path from the front intake fans, directly across the middle of the board, GPU card and CPU, that creates a draft effect which causes heat to be almost instantly funneled out the rear and top rear fan locations.


    Here is a good read:

    http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/cooling-airflow-heatsink,3053-2.html
  38. iBuypower and CyberpowerPC are the two biggest jokes in the system builder communities, if you ask anybody with a measure of sense at all. Most the cases and power supplies they use are inferior, by far, to what you could get for a very small additional investment, and they don't provide much information about them. I don't even see any product information on that AZZA case.

    There isn't even an AZZA EOS 209 listed on the AZZA website that I can see. I can't really tell much from the pictures either. It might be a model sold exclusively to iBuypower.
  39. http://m.imgur.com/awpZNMX,4VwcQJx I have no room for a bottom fan, but after turning it off and opening it, the PSU felt super hot, even after a minute of it sitting open.
  40. That's ok. Bottom mounted fans are rarely used because the PSU cabling is almost always in the way anyhow. Front, rear and top fans are the most important ones, but if you have side fan locations, those can definitely be useful. Still hard to tell anything from those images.

    Is the intake fan on your PSU facing into the case or does it face the floor through the vent in the bottom of the case?

    Is your PC sitting on carpet? If so, you need to get a hard flat surface for it to sit on, like a scrap of countertop material or a wide board, so that the intake for the power supply is not blocked and so that when the exhaust fans blow out, creating a vacuum, cool air can be sucked in through the unused bottom case fan location a little bit at least.

    You should pull the front panel off the case and see if there are fans, or fan locations, behind the front panel.

    You might even want to run the system with the side panel completely off, temporarily, and see if anything improves.
  41. I have no side panel fans, the PSU fan is facing my desk, my PC sits on my desk, my desk is on carpet. There's a stock (bad) fan in the front, top is out and the back 2 with the radiator in between are intake.
  42. It's in carpet right now while I'm lookin at it on its side.
  43. I can get a new case if you really recommend it. Will run with side panels off right now.
  44. Side panels off, still froze. Nothing is hot at all except the radiator, which feels hot but not hot enough to crash a system.
  45. WigglesR said:
    http://m.imgur.com/ubHdu0u
    Top fan is blowing in and the 2 side fans are blowing out.


    WigglesR said:
    I have no side panel fans


    These seem to be contradictory statements, leading to confusion on my part. So let's start from the beginning.

    Exactly how many fan locations DO you have, and where are they, regardless of whether there are fans in them or not. AND, which locations actually have fans?
  46. What is with the "bad" fan? It's not still connected right? Probably a good idea to replace it. If there are two front fan locations, I'd highly recommend you populate both those locations with intake fans. Since you say you have no "side" fans, what side fans were you referring to earlier?
  47. For now I'd say move your top fan to the top rear location and make sure it's blowing out. Turn the fan on your radiator so that it too is blowing out of the case through the radiator. Leave the side panel off for now since you have zero intake fans working. Chances are at least somewhat good if the only intake fan you've had running in there was the fan at the top of the case, something has been thermally damaged on the motherboard. Especially if the rear fan was also not only blowing in, but bringing the heat from the radiator with it.
  48. I meant back fans, not side, mb. the "bad" fan is a stock fan, so I consider it bad since it's worse than my other 3. There is only 1 frontal fan slot, I will replace the fan in the front. There's 2 fans on my radiator btw. The fan on top is blowing out, the 2 on the radiator are blowing in.
  49. Before you said the "two side fans" which as you corrected to be the radiator fans, were blowing out. So they are in an intake configuration in reality though right? Intake means blowing into the case bringing cool air in. Exhaust means blowing out, exhausting heated air. Let's stick to those terms for the sake of uniformity and eliminating misunderstandings.

    You really do not need two fans on your radiator. Most testing shows very minimal gains from push pull configurations with dual fans. I'd remove one of those fans and use it in front as an intake. Use the remaining fan on the radiator but turn it around so that it blows OUT as an exhaust. You want the radiator mounted to the case and the fan blowing through the radiator out of the case. Move the top fan to the top back location and turn it over as an exhaust fan too. Move the stock fan from the front of the case to the other top location, also as an exhaust.

    That should leave you with one front intake and three exhaust fans. That creates a negative pressure situation which is good for cooling performance. It would be a lot better if there was a second front intake, but you deal with what you have when you have to. A different case might be a very good idea, but it may not even be the thermals which are your entire problem. Let's just keep in mind that we're trying to correct a problem with your cooling, but the problem with your system in general may or may not be related to the poor configuration of the cooling system. Still, it's a very good idea to get this all straightened out anyhow.

    I'm thinking the chances are good that there's already been damage to something from heat, but it's hard to say at this point.

    After you get the fans all straightened out, I'd suggest you download and install HWinfo:

    http://www.hwinfo.com/download.php


    Run HWinfo and select "sensors only". Take screenshots of the sensors and post them here. It will probably take three screenshots after scrolling to capture all the sensor data. You can post images directly here in the thread as follows:


    You can post any hosted image into the post by simply adding the following code where you want it in your reply (Even quick replies), remembering to replace the highlighted text shown below with the actual link to your image.


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