Can surge protectors or outlets cause shut downs?

Hi everyone,

I'm a first time builder and I just recently built my first computer. After assembling it with a friend at their house, I played and tested it at their house before taking it home. I started playing it at home in my room and then it began to shut down without notice. I brought it back to my friends house to have them check it out. For some reason, it would work fine at their house. I would play league of legends on max settings while streaming it with OBS and playing titanfall all at the same time at their house but barely could get 10 minutes when trying to play goat simulator and recording the gameplay at my house.

At first I thought it was a bad power supply as many forums suggested so I used my RMA to replace the power supply and received a new one. It still continued to shut down. So I tried HWMonitor while playing league of legends and was receiving max temps of

TEMPIN1 (around 60 C Max)
Core Temp (50 C Max)

but I was able to play just league of legends without it shutting down. Then I tried XCOM: enemy within and after 40 minutes of playing it, it turned off again.

I have tested the hard drives by swapping them out and testing the ram with leaving one in and swapping it. I have also ran a MEMTEST and it found no issues with the ram. I brought it to a local shop for a free diagnostics and they said there were no problems with any of the parts.

I tried again playing the system at my house but this time I set it up in the living room with no internet. I was able to play COD4 and Blur at the same time and record the gameplay simultaneously with no issues.

My question is if my power outlet in my room is affecting the performance of my PC and causing it to shut down or is it something else. I live in a Surburban house in California. Also would a UPS be able to fix that problem if it was a power issue?

P. S. Sorry for the long post but I wanted to be thorough. Also, I am using a stock fan, going at stock speeds, and using a 4-5 year old surge protector that I got from Big Lots. Thank you for reading.

Here are the specs of my computer:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor ($109.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3P ATX AM3+ Motherboard ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston HyperX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($55.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R7 260X 2GB Video Card ($104.40 @ Newegg)
Case: Xigmatek Recon ATX Mid Tower Case ($37.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Thermaltake TR2 600W ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ Micro Center)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer ($15.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $518.32
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-05-08 01:53 EDT-0400)
7 answers Last reply
More about surge protectors outlets shut downs
  1. Are you overclocking anything? If so STOP IT NOW.

    Your cpu should be about 30C idle and 50C gaming.

    I don't like your Thermaltake psu. You should get a good Tier One power supply - http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1804779/power-supply-unit-tier-list.html#13224310

    But we can check a few things with HWInfo - power supply voltages - 12v, 5v and 3.3 v - min and max readings.

    cpu - fan speed, min and max package temp, Vcore

    Can you give us that info?
  2. maybe check the power coming out of your wall. or have your parents do it rather. it could be faulty wiring.
  3. i7Baby said:
    Are you overclocking anything? If so STOP IT NOW.

    Your cpu should be about 30C idle and 50C gaming.

    I don't like your Thermaltake psu. You should get a good Tier One power supply - http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1804779/power-supply-unit-tier-list.html#13224310

    But we can check a few things with HWInfo - power supply voltages - 12v, 5v and 3.3 v - min and max readings.

    cpu - fan speed, min and max package temp, Vcore

    Can you give us that info?



    Is there any specific program you want me to run at the same time while I get the mins and max?

    Here is the image of HWM when I play Saints Row 4:
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7vmGrUwuCx1a3JIdVY0MkVBRFU/edit?usp=sharing
  4. All your power supply are way lower than they should be. So you need to replace the power supply.

    And your cpu temp (47C) is way higher than it should be if you were only on idle.

    It usually takes 3 screens to see al the info.
  5. i7Baby said:
    All your power supply are way lower than they should be. So you need to replace the power supply.

    And your cpu temp (47C) is way higher than it should be if you were only on idle.

    It usually takes 3 screens to see al the info.


    I want to clarify that the 47 C was the temp for the CPU core temp it was at when I was playing Saints Row 4. When it was idle, the temp was around 26 C. I looked at PC part picker and it said that my power needs are half (310w) to the power supply (650w).
  6. tallazn99 said:
    i7Baby said:
    All your power supply are way lower than they should be. So you need to replace the power supply.

    And your cpu temp (47C) is way higher than it should be if you were only on idle.

    It usually takes 3 screens to see al the info.


    I want to clarify that the 47 C was the temp for the CPU core temp it was at when I was playing Saints Row 4. When it was idle, the temp was around 26 C. I looked at PC part picker and it said that my power needs are half (310w) to the power supply (650w).


    OK - package temp (core temp is about 25C higher) is OK idle and gaming then

    For a pc with a R7 260X you need a psu with minimum 19A on the 12V rail and 450W overall. You should pick a psu from Tier One - http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1804779/power-supply-unit-tier-list.html#13224310
  7. tallazn99 said:
    I looked at PC part picker and it said that my power needs are half (310w) to the power supply (650w).

    Using numbers, you discovered some only know and recommend using hearsay. Many recite speculation of the 'usual suspects' rather than do what is even defined on a TV show - "follow the evidence".

    PSU is only one component of a power 'system'. PSU does not determine when to power on or off. That decision comes from another 'system' component - a power controller.

    To obtain a useful reply means using a simple layman's tool - a multimeter. To make measurements from six key wires. Empowered by those numbers, then the fewer who actually know this stuff can define a suspect or exonerate the entire PSU system. What is the controller seeing? Is the controller getting correct information? Only numbers will answer that.

    Why do so many recommend a 600 watt PSU. Difficult is to explain what is required on each voltage (3.3, 5, 12). So we make it simple. We tell computer assemblers that they need a PSU with at least double tje reqriored watts. Then customer help lines are not clogged teaching computer assemblers how electricity works. You have rightly ignored nonsense about an undersized PSU. A meter, instructions, and one minute of labor will define the entire power 'system'. If exonerated, then we can move on to so many other and possible suspects.
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